Member Since: October 26, 2007

Country: United States

  • You are exactly right. In fact, they typically are drilling a stack of identical panels to increase the production rate.

  • Yeah. I’d be real careful with 3D printed resist, because most 3D printer stock is some kind of chlorinated plastic. Chlorine is highly reactive… if released it would probably bind with water to create HCl + O2…. or maybe the free oxygen reacts with something else first??? I’m thinking the soup is nasty enough already.

    In an case, one of my friends swears by the toner transfer method using a laser printer. People seem to have good luck with that and it is cheap and simple.

  • Drilling after etching? Well…

    I think Nixon was president the last time I etched my own PCB, but among my acquaintances that still do it, I thought drilling before etching was S.O.P. because: 1) less chance of the drill munching the tiny isolated pad, 2) much easier to align the art for a double sided board.

    Double sided boards are not too big a deal if you do mostly through-hole parts, you just have to remember to solder both the top and bottom side of each pin because the holes are not plated through, and if you are making the pin do double duty as a via, you want the connectivity. Also, if you do have any free-standing via’s, save your clipped-off resistor leads to make via shunts.

    I’ve also seen home-made PCB’s for SMT parts by simply using an X-acto knife to cut isolation gaps. This actually isn’t such a bad option for making something like a quick-n-dirty carrier board for an SO part.

  • Date is not great for people that need to show up at school before then. Kind of squashes our plans to enter this year. Major bummer.

  • Usually I prefer to solder in the pins myself, so that I can customize the configuration. But I can see where pre-soldered headers is beginner-friendly.

  • Great video. If you want your mind blown even further, a good friend who is an accomplished amateur organist told me that with many of those large pipe organs, the actuator mechanism is pneumatic. So there is a significant time delay between when you push the key and when the pipe starts sounding, and of course the halls are large enough that simple acoustic delay gets added. If you watch the video closely, you can see the effect – there is a noticable keypress-to-sound delay. I find it astounding that organists can learn to deal with that.

    Also, you can tell that this is an antique instrument because the pedal board is hinged from the bench end, not at the instrument. My friend did a bus tour of Europe that was all organists visiting various famous instruments (how is that for musical geekery?) and the “backwards” antique pedal boards drove him nuts.

  • Hurray for the box wall! I would say it meets or exceeds all applicable ISO and ANSI standards. Also, another vote for more shenanigans.

    One note about CAN, though. It is often mistaken for a differential bus, but in fact it is ground referenced. There are three detectable states on the CAN bus: 0, 1, and collision (0 wins). Can’t get away without a ground reference, as in a true differential bus.

  • Hurrah! Tail shaft! Thank you for enabling encoders. What is the diameter of the tail shaft?

  • When I saw it had a USB port, I thought: “Must Buy”. Then I see it has some strange driver. Well, often these devices that are not badged “USB” use an FTDI chip or one of the other USB-to-serial converters, and then squat on some random VID/PID so that they don’t have to pay the USB consortium to use the logo.

    So… I download the .rar file. And….. I find a Windows self-extracting .exe. So far in 2015, I have not had to boot Windows, and this isn’t enough to motivate me. Maybe someone that buys one of these units can look at how it enumerates itself on the USB bus, and maybe try a CDCACM driver on it by associating the VID/PID. Or maybe some Windows user can poke around the same way.

    In any case, the temperature probe is nice in a meter in this price range. I had to pay out for a pretty spiffy Fluke in order to get a temperature probe.

    Wake me when the USB connectivity works on Linux or a Mac. I’d buy it instantly if I could interface data logging scripts to it.

  • Indeed. Or bend the leads back, and then fill the 1x1 brick space under it with a 1x1 plate and a 1x1x2/3 wedge http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=54200 – problem solved. Or use a 1x2 wall element http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4865 – Or any number of other solutions. Some people just don’t understand Lego design grammar.

No public wish lists :(