Member Since: October 26, 2007

Country: United States

  • Actually, I was asking if a ROS driver was available to publish depth data – a ROS driver would sit on top of UVC. A typical depth camera ROS driver would publish a point cloud on a ROS topic.

  • Do the USB enpoints appear as UVC devices? Is there a ROS driver?

  • W.R.T. the ham project, I’ve found the best way to approach that situation is to be the one that goes up after the talk and offers to participate, offers to help with things that are within your own wheel house. It won’t always work, because some people just don’t want to start a group project, and that’s cool. Heck it’s a hobby, so if it isn’t fun, stop. It’s OK if they don’t want to collaborate.

    I’ve found the Homebrew Robotics community to be all about collaboration – in part, it’s because robots require such span, ME+EE+SW+HRI, that basically nobody has all four within their comfort zone. So the meetups are a great place to make a connection with your complex-conjugate personality.

  • Hey, how about giving gEDA, the GNU EDA suite, a bit of love! It has been around far longer than KiCAD. It is another free-as-in-speech EDA system to consider.

  • I’ve never used anything but gEDA, producing regular gerbers, and fabbed with several places. None ever had a problem with my gerbers. Several friends have used a bunch of fab houses with a whole bunch of boards with KiCAD output and never had a problem. Before switching to KiCAD, one friend had boards fabbed with PCB software he wrote for himself, and never had a problem.

    There is NO MAGIC in an RS-274X file. They come in clean and crufty, to be sure, but most fab houses can deal with even very crufty RS-274X. In any case, most of them do automatic DRC on incoming gerbers, and if there is something they don’t like, they will flag it so that you can fix it and resubmit. Any time that has happened to me it has been a PEBKAC, not a gEDA problem.

    gerbv is a free gerber viewer (part of the gEDA suite, but works perfectly well stand-alone). If gerbv is OK with it, and you label your files clearly, you will have no problem.

  • You are exactly right. In fact, they typically are drilling a stack of identical panels to increase the production rate.

  • Yeah. I’d be real careful with 3D printed resist, because most 3D printer stock is some kind of chlorinated plastic. Chlorine is highly reactive… if released it would probably bind with water to create HCl + O2…. or maybe the free oxygen reacts with something else first??? I’m thinking the soup is nasty enough already.

    In an case, one of my friends swears by the toner transfer method using a laser printer. People seem to have good luck with that and it is cheap and simple.

  • Drilling after etching? Well…

    I think Nixon was president the last time I etched my own PCB, but among my acquaintances that still do it, I thought drilling before etching was S.O.P. because: 1) less chance of the drill munching the tiny isolated pad, 2) much easier to align the art for a double sided board.

    Double sided boards are not too big a deal if you do mostly through-hole parts, you just have to remember to solder both the top and bottom side of each pin because the holes are not plated through, and if you are making the pin do double duty as a via, you want the connectivity. Also, if you do have any free-standing via’s, save your clipped-off resistor leads to make via shunts.

    I’ve also seen home-made PCB’s for SMT parts by simply using an X-acto knife to cut isolation gaps. This actually isn’t such a bad option for making something like a quick-n-dirty carrier board for an SO part.

  • Date is not great for people that need to show up at school before then. Kind of squashes our plans to enter this year. Major bummer.

  • Usually I prefer to solder in the pins myself, so that I can customize the configuration. But I can see where pre-soldered headers is beginner-friendly.

No public wish lists :(