free-bee

Member Since: November 21, 2011

Country: United States

  • I found it–hiding in plain sight, of course. I also didn’t notice it was a TLC555. I was thinking of the NE555, which its datasheet implies that 100kHz is the maximum. I won’t be able to test it for a bit because, apparently, I didn’t plug in my o-scope before piling a bunch of stuff where I can’t get to the power strip :P

  • About a year late, but whatever. I read somewhere that these can only put out a hand-full of kHz. I can’t find anything in the datasheet. I’ve been wanting to test one with an o-scope to see what I can get out of it. I’ll edit this post when I finally get off my lazy butt and do it.

  • Probably just got too happy with the shift key. We use lower case m for meters.

  • Keep in mind that 10 A is the stall current, which will always be higher than the run current. Testing for a stall condition shouldn’t be too hard (built-in reed switches). I used to have a link to the motors datasheet, but it quit working and I deleted it. The motor has three leads instead of four. I forget the configuration name, but it requires two leads to be used at a time: one tied to Vcc, one to Vdd, and one disconnected altogether. I would need six of these things to be able to run the motor and I was trying to determine what my best option is (mosfet switches or solid state relays or whatever else).

  • Because if you win you can afford to buy more ding and dents.

  • This is now my favorite story on the internet.

  • Would it be okay to send about 10 A at about 12 V through one of these? I’m looking to build a BLDC motor control circuit and 10 A is the stall current of the motor.

  • I did that with a neon (or some type of gas) light. Thankfully not many shards were produced from the bright, beautiful flash. Not too long later I learned about those types of bulbs. I also learned back a long time ago about putting 18 volts into an LED with no resistor.

  • I think I’ve only seen like one or two total. I’ve not actually tried it, but it shouldn’t be that hard (as a proximity sensor). Just set up the detector to drop voltage and use an ADC to test the voltages. You might even be able to get the voltage to fluctuate enough to use a digital input. As for beam breaking, you can at smaller distances with no filtering (two or three inches).