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Member Since: December 2, 2011

Country: United States

  • Of course, I'm assuming it would be very easy to insert a bit of code to run some lighting effects as well? and change the knock sensor to IR motion detector?

  • Years ago in my Drunk rock days I would use Surface transducer mikes mounted to hollow "interior" doors to record drum kits. worked very well for the low ends.

    Then of course.. there was the time My assistant and I convinced the night manager at the pub that the brewery was Haunted. Then took a old Peizo transducer tweeter horn, removed the horn and Duct taped the unit to an Iron pipe running through the brewery. I had then made a 5 hour long MP3 file of random haunted house noises and hooked the tweeter to an amp, and the amp to a MP3 player. and hit "play" before I left for the night. the already spooked out pub night manager had to go down stairs to the brewery to do the nights books...

    it was an overall good effect and I'm very sorry that all that security camera video footage is lost.

  • Just admit it, All this is just a clever Rouse to get a bunch of Parts cranked out with free labor isn't it?


    I'm a craft brewer myself and have enjoyed many a can OB when we used to sell it out of warehouse. We've Gotten too big to sell other peoples beer and sold that contract to our current distributor. I ruined a perfectly good hobby of homebrewing by going pro, so that's why I give nice people like y'all my play money now. Now if only I could figure out how to measure PH electronically for that Big CIP system we've been fooling with.

  • Thanks! Got it tweaked a bit and looking pretty decent. The idea is to break it down for and put it on a ATtiny and it's own little dedicated board for instillation in a piece of Lighthouse shaped garden statuary, y'know.. over by the goldfish pond. the idea is to simulate in code.. the circuit described here:


  • Wonderful! Now.. Let me ask you this. Lets say I would like to simulate a rotating beacon as it would be seen from afar.. a Coastal light house for example. This would have the LED slowly ramp up to peak brightness hold for a second, then fade back out, repeat, etc, etc

    Actually, I think I got it pretty close to what I'm trying to do here by playing with the speed and delay

  • Okay, before I worry about the FTDI breakout board. can I assume that loading a hex file to the board via serial, as per the instructions provided herein is simply a matter of replacing the boot-loader hex file with the hex I want the chip to run? I'm sorry if this is a simple question, I am trying to learn

  • Alright, I have followed all these steps for option 1 and have replaced the Bootloader on my bad UNO.

    it looks as though it is running the Hello world Blink program. It is also disconnected from the Programer UNO and running on its own power supply.

    still not communicating with the host computer through USB, so i can only assume that the USB controler chip on that board is toast. However, Now that I've been able to succesfuly replace the Boot loader via AVRdude. does this mean I can now upload a sketch to this board via AVRdude after it's been compiled to .hex?

  • I seemed to have borked my original Uno board with a misplaced capacitor. The board lights up when powered either with USB or external power, but does not show up to the computer for programing. I performed a loop back test with no results. Hitting reset on the board now has the P13 LED flash three times, pause then flash rapidly (too fast for me to count accurately). through some research I found that it is possible that the boot loader may have been damaged and the only likely fix would be to re-flash the chip. I do have a new Uno on the way. Can I assume that this tutorial is the way to go to try to bring the old girl back to life? Or do y'all think that there may be other issues involved with my original board at this point?

No public wish lists :(