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November 10, 2007
EdgeChem Jamaica LTD
University of Technology Jamaica
about 4 days ago
about a month ago
OK great, thanks much. People would really like to be able to see this because by just looking at the product, you wouldn’t be able to tell.
I had posted a comment on the product post, but i have to ask here, since this page seems to be getting more attention.
Can someone correct me if i am wrong please but, does this product actually hide the PI away inside and blocks your access to the USB and Ethernet ports?
I can’t imagine how any sane engineer (tinkerer) would do something like that.
Maybe there is something i am not seeing. A laptop with no ports…mmmmmmmm…….
News - Friday Product Post: Pi-T…
about a month ago
I laughed when i saw this thing being put together.
So, please correct me if i am wrong (i reeeeeeaaaaalllllly hope i am), you don’t get access to the PI’s USB or Ethernet ports. Why i said, cause i saw them being locked away in the shell and they are too far offset from the edge to make any practical sense.
Who ever made that should probably consider moving to making action figures…
Am sorry if it sounds harsh, but seriously, making this the way it was made, tucking all the goodness of the PI inside and “LOCKING” it ways…..nope, not kool at all…
News - Headers or No Headers?
about 6 months ago
You can break them by hand, and the break will be clean and neat. (They are build to be broken by hand).
I think its also fair to mention that the option without the header allows you to solder it directly to another board, kinda like a SOC., This not only reduces the overall height of your project (Miniaturization) but its also allows you to permanently attach your board, an use a braid to remove it (You don’t have to solder though the pin holes).
Having the headers included is not a concern for me as i have tonnes lying around (i make headers only orders from time to time) cause i use headers on boards i design myself.
Its fair to note that even with the headers included in the shipment, some folks don’t want the job to solder as they are only creating a prototyping setup to prove a concept and may even move away from the arduino (or other) form factor for the final product.
If i can remember correctly, there is a type of header that allows you to snap the boards on and remove after, its holds like a solder joint but without solder (don’t remember name). Also i think i saw it on this site. Maybe a good option to start exploring and making better use of those. Funny, they are called solder-less headers, but they are retired (wonder why).
News - Your November Caption Con…
about 2 years ago
You guys from Hogwarts are always in the no-fly zone.
Now, you get a tracking device.
about 2 years ago
A quick question, since you will soon have the modules in stock, i would like to buy one, however what i really need is the entire kit (mini). Can i buy the module now and the mini breakout later, or do i have to buy the breakout as a kit?
News - December Caption Contest
about 3 years ago
Yep! we did say cross-platform.
about 3 years ago
I have recently bought one of these motors and had some issues using it. Currently i am working with the EiBotBoard but based on the fundamentals all projects should be adaptable to it’s characteristics.
Its a funny motor, great but real funny.
As with any servo, the default position is at zero (used with hesitation). with a swing of 90 degrees to the left or right.
Now this is the important part, as we all already know you cant get an actual 180 degree of movement from this puppy so you will have to settle for the 162 degrees it can produce.
its only capable of a 81 degree swing clockwise or counterclockwise from the default 0 degree position.
If you try to get more than that it will start acting up, as many persons here have described, i.e. the shaft just keep swing from left to right like a mad cat, reason is that the controller inside doesn’t know know the limitations of the motor so when you give a degree turn it cant achieve it goes mad trying to find it (it never will).
If that happens, just issue a command telling the motor to go to a known position (-81 to +81) and it will calm down and regain its sanity.
In terms of using this motor with the EiBotBoard
My hats off to its creator, a great job but sparkfun needs to examine the documentation that comes with the product as most of it is incorrect (by far), especially the servo (S2) command.
the S2 command uses a resolution of 1/12,000,000 of a second to a single unit, works out to be 83.something uS.
This is fine, but the documentation states that the max value for duration is 32,000 which equals to 3 mS.
Simple math tells you this is incorrect as 83uS * 32,000 = 2.66 mS.
So here is how it works…tested and proven….
to have a servo go to the default (0 and in some cases 90 (for the people who prefer that)) you issue the SC command with a duration value of 15000.
each degree is a factor of 111, so if zero is the default position the 6000 = -81 degrees and 24000 = +81 degrees.
My calculations have proven to be spot on (for my application) but i do not know what your project is like so it may vary.
Let me know now it works.
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