Track My Order
Frequently Asked Questions
International Shipping Info
Mon-Fri, 9am to 12pm and
1pm to 5pm U.S. Mountain Time:
January 10, 2012
about 3 years ago
Thank you, Alex. Great tutorial and I appreciate the information. As some feedback, USB to Serial IC is 4-5 mA of the deep sleep current. I ended up measuring 5-6 mA in deep sleep prior to pulling the IC. I was still measuring 1-2mA in deep sleep. I found that switching to EXT1 as the wake-up source, from EXT0, reduced the current draw to > 133uA in deep sleep, I need a better DMM to get a better measurement.
You guys may want to remove the "feature" of "2.5uA deep sleep current," that doesn't seem possible on the board, and I don't think the spec for the ESP32 even goes that low.
What kind of current draw can be expected in deep sleep when using a lipo on this board?
about 6 years ago
Unfortunately I did not buy mine from SFE, but would like to make buyers aware of a problem I had. There is a service bulletin out that some of them have frames that are not square, but can be fixed. In my case, the extruder was able to move down the z axis but not up. This being my first ever 3D printer, I didn't realize that the super thin layer of material it was leaving was not the way it was supposed to work, and thus backed up material in the extruder. It backed up high enough that it reached a point where it could not be warmed and removed. I was working with Lulzbot support through this entire process, and their initial offer was for me to send back the extruder and they would repair it, which doesn't seem fair for a brand new machine. I was eventually able to reach a point where they agreed to send a replacement extruder, as soon as they could confirm that I shipped the clogged one.
This is a warning to check the square of your frame BEFORE running it, or even assembling it.
See the service bulletin here: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/workflow/squaring-taz-6-frame/service-bulletins/
Lulzbot website > Support > Open Hardware Assembly Instructions (Short way down on the right under "Quick links" * "Documentation") > New Window > Service Bulletins > Squaring TAZ 6 Frame
The process they list didn't work for mine, but the idea of measuring from corner to corner and making sure the measurements are the same is the important part. Mine were 29.25" and 29.6" which is not close enough. When mine were square they were both 29.5".
Another note, SFE has much better customer service than Aleph Objects, so if you are going to buy one, get it here.
I'll leave a proper review once I get the, hopefully new, replacement print head.
No public wish lists :(