Myself

Member Since: December 11, 2007

Country: United States

  • Product DEV-11897 | about 2 months ago

    For anyone wanting a view inside the connector: http://www.vernier.com/products/accessories/bta-elv/

    Oh, and Sparkfun’s is a better deal, too. :)

  • News - Why You Should De-Rate Ca… | about 7 months ago

    The capacitance also decreases as the voltage goes up: http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5527

    Why too much capacitance can destabilize an LDO: (hint: Phase-shift.) http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snva020b/snva020b.pdf

    General info on choosing and using bypass capacitors: http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/an13/an1325.pdf

  • Product PRT-12020 | about 7 months ago

    Whoah, cheapest Kelvin clips ever. Yoink!

  • Product PRT-11367 | about a year ago

    You’ll see 22AWG bits around, for use in the high-torque wire-wrap guns of the telecommunications industry. It’s quite common there, used for DS1 wiring among other things, but the posts in telecom are considerably beefier than the leads found on electronics sockets.

    As a hobbyist, I’ve done 22AWG wrap in projects, mostly for power connections. I wouldn’t recommend it. Get the gun cocked just a little bit sideways, and the socket post will twist right off. Electronics wire-wrap is really a different animal, and everything’s sized around 26-28-30AWG wire. Solid 22 is for breadboards. :)

  • Product PRT-11461 | about a year ago

    These aren’t intended as inline connectors! The barrel part is insulated, but the terminal part is not, and if you mate a male/female pair of these, you’ll have exposed metal and you’ll need to insulate it separately. Just use a real connector.

    These are intended for use with components that have terminals sticking out, like switches. There, the body of the component holds the terminals so they don’t touch.

  • Product BOB-10660 | about 2 years ago

    AKA “null modem” adapter. Everything old is new again!

  • News - Maker Faire Detroit Recap… | about 2 years ago

    Delighted to see so many i3 Detroit members in this, as you’ve seen, we’re big fans of Sparkfun!

    I’m glad you guys made it to Maker Faire Detroit, too. It’s been such a blast over the past few years, having a big hackerspace in the area, and then having big events to help bring people together – a lot of i3’s current members heard about us at past Maker Faires. Now all we need is a way to reach all the people buying Sparkfun stuff at the local MicroCenter, and say “so if you need a workshop, there’s this little nonprofit…” ;)

  • Product DEV-11352 | about 2 years ago

    Soldering wires directly to the shield is probably safest, if you’re running any kind of current. When you’re playing at 5A, 28AWG ribbon cable is known as a “fusible link”. ;)

    Even the D-sub’s per-pin max current of 5A strikes me as a bit optimistic. If I was running that continuously, I’d be making really sure my connector was name-brand and had some airflow to keep cool. No cheapies!

  • Product TOL-10326 | about 2 years ago

    Yeah, if you set it down after use, the heat propagates back and trips the uh-oh mechanism. Nice that it has one, but it’s poorly placed or too sensitive or something.

    I’ve found that by hanging mine on a hook when I’m done, convection cools it nicely and it doesn’t disable itself. Works, but awkward.

  • News - Free Day 2012 | about 2 years ago

    How would one even MAKE an Alot of heatshrink? http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2010/04/alot-is-better-than-you-at-everything.html

    One thing’s for sure, it would be a gruesome beast…

No public wish lists :(