SparkFun will be closing early at 3:30 Friday 5/27 and remain closed Monday for Memorial Day (5/30). Orders placed after 2pm MT on Friday (5/27) will process and ship out on Tuesday (5/31).


Member Since: December 11, 2007

Country: United States

  • Yes, but if you’re using double-sided foam tape or something to hold it down, be very careful of how you push the glass into the tape! I’ve cracked the corner of a similar display with very little pressure; it’s thin glass and not meant to be mashed on. Consider laying the glass down on a table and flipping the board over it, pushing against the board rather than the glass.

  • Replying to myself here with a bit more detail:

    “First-order retrievability” is an even bigger deal in a shared space than a personal workshop. Because it equates to first-order-put-away-ability, which turns out to be the crucial one. People will dig to find a tool or a part, if they know where to look, but they will not dig to put things away. At least, not everyone will, and if you haven’t tried to maintain resources in a shared space yet, I have some sad news about the distribution of messy jerkfaces among your idealized amazing-hacker-member population.

  • I love this, it validates so much stuff we’ve already been doing at our hackerspace! Most of the members immediately understand the “clear workspaces completely when you’re done” concept, and this article is further encouragement to nudge the others into playing nice with the shared toys.

    Here’s a fairly recent panoramic shot of the lab: https://www.i3detroit.org/wiki/File:Eroom-pano-resized.jpg

    And the parts drawers themselves, this is definitely dated (we’ve added 4 more cabinets but things are largely in the same relative locations, even as things shift slightly): https://www.i3detroit.org/wiki/File:NewERoomWithOverlays-output.jpg

  • Sweet! This has a high enough range for DIY TPMS…

  • For the love of your nose, RUN THIS THING OUTSIDE for a few minutes when you first get it. The brand-new heating element is coated in something that, when heated, quickly coats your sinuses and throat in a truly yucky feeling.

    Other than that it’s great.

  • For anyone wanting a view inside the connector: http://www.vernier.com/products/accessories/bta-elv/

    Oh, and Sparkfun’s is a better deal, too. :)

  • The capacitance also decreases as the voltage goes up: http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5527

    Why too much capacitance can destabilize an LDO: (hint: Phase-shift.) http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snva020b/snva020b.pdf

    General info on choosing and using bypass capacitors: http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/an13/an1325.pdf

  • Whoah, cheapest Kelvin clips ever. Yoink!

  • You’ll see 22AWG bits around, for use in the high-torque wire-wrap guns of the telecommunications industry. It’s quite common there, used for DS1 wiring among other things, but the posts in telecom are considerably beefier than the leads found on electronics sockets.

    As a hobbyist, I’ve done 22AWG wrap in projects, mostly for power connections. I wouldn’t recommend it. Get the gun cocked just a little bit sideways, and the socket post will twist right off. Electronics wire-wrap is really a different animal, and everything’s sized around 26-28-30AWG wire. Solid 22 is for breadboards. :)

  • These aren’t intended as inline connectors! The barrel part is insulated, but the terminal part is not, and if you mate a male/female pair of these, you’ll have exposed metal and you’ll need to insulate it separately. Just use a real connector.

    These are intended for use with components that have terminals sticking out, like switches. There, the body of the component holds the terminals so they don’t touch.

No public wish lists :(