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Snortimer

Member Since: February 8, 2012

Country: United States

  • Tutorial - Enclosure Modification | about a year ago

    If you ave access to a laser cutter or vinyl cutter, you can cut a mask as a guide. That’ll allow you to test-fit your PCB a little before taping (or just sticking) the mask to the enclosure, giving you one more chance to get things closer before cutting holes. Once the mask is attached, you can use it just like you would your drawn marks, with greater confidence that the edge is where it should be.

    Of course, with a laser cutter, if your enclosure is made of a laser-safe material, you might be able to just cut it directly with the cutter. Make sure you put something inside to absorb excess laser energy so you don’t get marks on the far side of your enclosure (unlikely with large enclosures). Cardboard or MDF should be sufficient.

    Furthermore, you might just make an enclosure from scratch with the laser cutter, but modifying a pre-made one can save time and effort, and provide access to materials a laser can’t handle.

  • Product WRL-11373 | about a year ago

    I have a question, as well…

    I looked at the schematic, and I’m pretty sure, but not completely. Are DIN and DOUT the same as IN and OUT?

    I’m using a book that seems to use the old version of this board, but some of the labels aren’t clear in the pictures, and they connect wires to the locations that currently correspond to IN and OUT but call them DIN and DOUT in the text. Later in the book, of course, they connect all the wires to the end, while saying they’re connecting to 3.3V, DIN and DOUT. Even in the old version, it looks like they’re connecting to 5V and not 3.3V. Does it even matter which I connect to? I’m using an Arduino UNO R3, but doesn’t this board convert to 3.3V regardless?

    The only reason I care is that it will impact how much space I have left on my protoshield.

  • Product PRT-11249 | about 2 years ago

    Why does this strip of 25 cost more than a strip of 50?

  • Product PRT-09541 | about 2 years ago

    I’d say about 3, as they’re rated at 350mV (0.35V) each. Pop them together in series, you’ve got 1050mV (1.05V). To be safe, it wouldn’t hurt to add a fourth to make sure you’re really getting the 1V you need (4x350mV=1400mV=1.4V).

  • Product PRT-07916 | about 2 years ago

    I bought one of the red ones of these when I needed a little prototyping space for my first robot (which is red). It’s a good size, and has plenty of room for what I needed (admittedly not much, but I only used about a fourth of the space on this). I like the size, as it fits quite easily anywhere on my build, while still allowing temporary connections before switching to a PCB.

    With no dedicated power buses (typical on something this size), you just use a couple rows for that.

    I second the request for a screw hole or two in the center, as that would be nicer than having to stick it to your project. Of course, as the idea behind a breadboard is that it isn’t your permanent installation, maybe this doesn’t really matter.

  • Product PRT-10471 | about 2 years ago

    I know it’s been a while since you asked, but in general, one cell (in series) equals 3.7V. So, this would be effectively two cells (2x3.7=7.4). Of course, to equal the capacity, it’s possible that multiple cells would be hooked up in series. However, for the purpose of charging, this would still be considered a 2-cell battery (still requiring a multi-cell charger).

    However, looking at the “Features” for this product, the first bullet item states “7.4V 2-cell pack,” so I’m going to say it’s probably 2 cells.

  • Product PRT-08484 | about 2 years ago

    Would it be possible to hook this up to a USB port to create a portable recharger for an iPad? There’s a $80 4000mAh battery available out there, but I like the idea of 50% more capacity at just over half the price (with USB charge port and recharge port and electronics and stuff). Heck, even at $60-$70, this would represent a savings.

No public wish lists :(