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Member Since: February 8, 2012

Country: United States

  • What's the average period for these?

  • Well, it's been 4 months, but yes, it'll totally work. And it can handle a good deal of current.

  • The video for this touch screen has it connected to a Redboard, so it will work with an Arduino.

  • What is the diagonal screen size? I don't see it anywhere, and it would help in finding a display to put behind it.

  • "Two by two, we're marching out the door, we all love Sparkfun and we want some more!"

  • Chip or Hershey's Kiss? You decide!

  • If you ave access to a laser cutter or vinyl cutter, you can cut a mask as a guide. That'll allow you to test-fit your PCB a little before taping (or just sticking) the mask to the enclosure, giving you one more chance to get things closer before cutting holes. Once the mask is attached, you can use it just like you would your drawn marks, with greater confidence that the edge is where it should be.

    Of course, with a laser cutter, if your enclosure is made of a laser-safe material, you might be able to just cut it directly with the cutter. Make sure you put something inside to absorb excess laser energy so you don't get marks on the far side of your enclosure (unlikely with large enclosures). Cardboard or MDF should be sufficient.

    Furthermore, you might just make an enclosure from scratch with the laser cutter, but modifying a pre-made one can save time and effort, and provide access to materials a laser can't handle.

  • I have a question, as well...

    I looked at the schematic, and I'm pretty sure, but not completely. Are DIN and DOUT the same as IN and OUT?

    I'm using a book that seems to use the old version of this board, but some of the labels aren't clear in the pictures, and they connect wires to the locations that currently correspond to IN and OUT but call them DIN and DOUT in the text. Later in the book, of course, they connect all the wires to the end, while saying they're connecting to 3.3V, DIN and DOUT. Even in the old version, it looks like they're connecting to 5V and not 3.3V. Does it even matter which I connect to? I'm using an Arduino UNO R3, but doesn't this board convert to 3.3V regardless?

    The only reason I care is that it will impact how much space I have left on my protoshield.

  • Why does this strip of 25 cost more than a strip of 50?

  • I'd say about 3, as they're rated at 350mV (0.35V) each. Pop them together in series, you've got 1050mV (1.05V). To be safe, it wouldn't hurt to add a fourth to make sure you're really getting the 1V you need (4x350mV=1400mV=1.4V).

No public wish lists :(