Member Since: February 17, 2012

Country: United States

  • Product TOL-10707 | about a year ago

    I’ve been using this iron for about a year, with a very fine tip for PTH work and a wider, flat tip for SMT work. I’ve been upgrading various tools lately, so I’m curious what the advantages are of the more expensive Hakko or Weller units? Do they heat up faster or maintain their heat more accurately? Are they just better made?

  • News - 10 Year Anniversary | about a year ago

    Congrats, Nate & SparkFun!

  • Product TOL-10242 | about a year ago

    Does the antimony make it much easier to work with? I’d never heard of it, but the links pstemari posted two years ago make it look like pretty unpleasant stuff. If I wanted dangerous solder, wouldn’t it be better just to stay with regular 60/40 leaded solder or the stuff you guys include in all the beginner kits? I’ve been using that well for nine months and find it very easy to work with, and I don’t care about being RoHS compliant since I’m only making things for me, but I do have a one year old daughter, so I’d like to use something safer. Am I better off getting the ChipQuik solder that has the same Tin/SIlver/Copper ratio as this stuff but without the antimony?

  • Product COM-11222 | about a year ago

    When would you use COM-10201 (the 3V EL Inverter) and when would you use this? Or is this meant to be used with COM-10201, in which case, is it just a 2AA battery holder with a JST connector? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I’ve never used EL and am trying to figure out a good starter package.

  • Product COM-00212 | about a year ago

    Any plans to sell the ATtiny261? Am In incorrect that the 261 is basically the “newer” version of the 2313, giving up the built-in serial for more ADC channels?

  • Tutorial - Beginning Embedded Electronics - 9 | about a year ago

    Was this ever answered? I’d like to build this when it arrives from BatchPCB. I can find SMD caps, but what value of inductor is L1? In the data sheet it looks like a ferrite bead instead of an inductor, or are these interchangeable?

  • Product PRT-10470 | about 2 years ago

    My understanding is that 20C means the battery can continuously discharge at a rate of 20 times its capacity. Since this is a 1500mAh battery, that means it could discharge at up to 30amps (20 x 1500mA). The enormous discharge rate of LiPo batteries is what I think makes them so compelling compared to other portable batteries. e.g. Sparkfun sells the 7.4v 500mAh Lipo for $4.95, which is about the cost of a 9v disposable alkaline battery, which has about the same capacity (~500mAh). The LiPo battery is physically slightly smaller and of course is rechargeable, but I think the best aspect is that it is 25C, which means it can discharge at 12.5A! I believe the alkaline 9V is closer to 1C, and is designed to be discharged at about 15mA according to battery websites.

  • Product PRT-10470 | about 2 years ago

    Is there a connector you recommend for the 14AWG bare discharge leads? I assume I could just attach male headers to my perf board, but that wouldn’t offer any polarity protection and I assume there’s a more elegant solution? I’ve been collecting various sizes of LiPo batteries and have collected mini-JST connectors for the 1S ones, regular JST connectors for the 2S ones, an XT60 connector for the 4S ones, but I’m not sure what connector I should get for these 3S ones.

  • Product KIT-10354 | about 2 years ago

    My wife and I just made our first Arduino project using this kit, a knit hat for our 3-month-old daughter.

  • Product DEV-10274 | about 2 years ago

    What is the orange LED next to the on switch? I don’t see it in the schematics, but I’m new at this so may be missing it. I’m assuming it has to do with whether the board is running from USB power or battery power? Or whether the USB is currently charging the LiPo battery? It seems to sporadically come on, whereas the green LED on pin 13 is blinking every second as per the basic sketch.

No public wish lists :(