Member Since: January 9, 2008

Country: United States




  • You can get 10uF 16V MLCCs (non-polarized ceramic capacitors) in an 0805 package. They’re a joy to use compared to tantalums like these.

  • I just got mine, and can confirm that it is a 2-start threaded rod.

  • 3D printers need a lot more torque than this can probably provide, but it might work for a small pick-n-place…

  • Kapton is a brand of polyimide tape. So yes, basically the same stuff, but technically no because it’s an off-brand.
    This stuff is also the duct tape of 3d printers. I’ve got bits of it all over my Makerbot, and it’s one of the best materials to make a heated build surface to keep prints from breaking loose before they’re finished. You’ll probably want a wider roll for that purpose, though.

  • This looks like a great board for 3d printing. You can’t use the bus mode though, because reprap/makerbot-style printers need most/all of the motors enabled constantly during a print.

  • I would like to see stats on how people did on the quiz. I’m particularly interested in how far most people got through it, as the funds quickly ran out after I was able to start taking it, and I only got through six of the questions, but I’d also like to see stats or correct/incorrect answers.

  • It even costs $10 more than the lillypad accelerometer, which uses the same sensor with additional external components. Do green squares cost THAT much more than purple circles?

  • The feature list says that a pull-up resistor is required, but your breakout boards don’t include one. What gives?

  • To clarify, http://whosawhatsis.com/paraphernalia/ftdi_basic_5v.jpg

  • Shouldn’t it also work if you only connect C5+ to SJ1 and cut the trace on the reverse on the other side of the branch? Or is C1 rated below 5 volts? Even if it is, you could cut its trace to ground and be left with two cuts and one patch, rather than 2 of each…

No public wish lists :(