Member #326474

Member Since: May 22, 2012

Country: United States

  • Somewhat pedantic, but the description reads: "The supply voltage range is 6VDC - 24VDC with the polarity maker.." Should say "marker not maker. Missing an R.

  • Does anyone know if this would be suitable to replace a beam-breaking sensor?

    If I understand correctly, the datasheet says "3 degree field of vision." So I am hoping I can treat the beam like a 3 degree cone.

    The sensor I'm replacing is a line breaking sensor at the top and bottom of essential a row of cabinet drawers. I'm sensing if the cabinet drawers are accidentally left a little open. Sonic sensors, anything without the second sensor on the bottom, these seem to not have a tight enough beam for my application.

    I know this is a somewhat pricey sensor, but perhaps it would work, unless I'm misunderstanding something. Not familiar with these, so if anyone could chime in I'd be very grateful.

  • If you want to make 3-50 boards of something and the LC can work, then the $7 price difference adds up.

    If you would throw down a simpler arduino, but maybbbbeeee worry about processor overhead, you might want to try the LC.

    If you want a 5V pin! There are a couple functional differences on the LC that could sometimes be better than the 3.1 equivalent.

    But yeah the 3.1 is a sexy beast to compete with, but I'm just saying that the LC also has its place.

  • Belated reply, but Paul/PJRC says that because he's exceedingly honest. The ADC's in theory have X-bits, but because they're jammed on the same silicone as the rest of the processor the reality is you could never expect that. The effective number of bits (ENOB) is then rated more realistically. You can with supersampling expect that maybe you would get better resolution than 12-bit...but you have to know what you're doing.

    Summary: XX-bit (16-bit you said, i haven't verified) = Manufacturer's ideal world rating. 12-bit ENOB = realistic rating given by paul

  • Strange way to word things "Each Magnetic Door Switch set can accept a max voltage of up to 100V at 500mA"

    I guess maybe I'm just nitpicking but it's not really "at 500mA" but rather "up to 100V, and up to 500mA"

    Oh, as I made this sentence I realized it's not particularly easy to state "Max Voltage 100V. Max current 500mA" in a comfortable sentence. But the distinction between these being two different ratings that operate independently, is what I was getting at.

    Also, 100V DC? That's pretty high- cool.

  • This shit rocks! Never tried the specific brand, but I assume sparkfun chose decent solder tip cleaner.

    I used to carry it around with me to classes because university tips sucked until you cleaned them.

  • That's a pretty common problem with motor controller input wires...solution is an electrolytic cap on the input, which due to high ESR absorbs the spike. To be honest I'm not entirely sure how that works, because I would think a low ESR cap would be more helpful [though it is actually the root of the problem]...but it does.

  • i think more likely that someone wants 3, than they want 1. ^_^

  • Similar logic applies to mosfets, FYI. [not to jump on the 3yr old bandwagon. I don't think these threads notify though, so I'm not bothering anyone hopefully.)

  • This is actually slightly unfortunate, since it's pretty easy to rip off a micro connector and harder to damage a mini.

    But, still, a great board.

No public wish lists :(