×

Our Technical Support team will be out of the office on Wednesday, April 23 starting at 12pm. Tech Support will reopen with normal hours on Thursday, April 24 at 9am. Thank you

Member #333257

Member Since: June 22, 2012

Country: United States

  • News - Fluke, we love you but yo… | about a month ago

    You absolutely got it, SMOTP! Fluke don’t make a DMM costing $15, and never has. The Fluke DMM I have been using, the 289, now sells for $540! (nobody with a working brain would ever confuse the two.) It’s all about using lawyers to create greed gone mad, and sooner or later, that greed will kill the company. Sure sorry to see it go…

  • News - Fluke, we love you but yo… | about a month ago

    I just phoned Fluke, and went through the maze of support folks, finally getting to one who was able to understand the degree to which Fluke is shooting itself in the foot. Obviously, some WAY overzealous Fluke lawyers are at the bottom of this debacle. The Fluke employee I spoke to was able to pull up this Sparkfun post, and promises to forwarding it to someone at Fluke for consideration. I like Fluke products, even if pricey, because they are very high quality. I hate to see one more fine old American manufacturer drowned by the Chinese electro-tsunami. I sincerely hope that this post gets in front of someone at Fluke with enough brainpower to realize how severely they are damaging their reputation with lawyers devoid of common sense.

  • News - Hygrometers: A Cautionary… | about a year ago

    As of this writing, your product description page does not have any mention of “re-hydration” or a link to this important information for the use of this sensor. Might someone remedy this omission?

  • Product COM-11477 | about 2 years ago

    You most definitely (as Kamiquasi first said) have a channel under the switch to run the unswitched conductor. I own at least a dozen IKEA JANSJO LED lamp($10). ‘A very nice work light with a totally flaky switch. I have already fixed 5 with my first batch of switches and I’m here ordering 10 more. 'Works like a hose! You must smash the IKEA switch to remove it, cut about an eighth inch off of each switched wire, strip back a little bit and crimp them onto switch terminals. Finis! The switch has a nice feel and a design which should keep the contacts much cleaner than the original switch did. The switch looks like it will fit on standard US lamp zip cord, but I haven’t tried it. The (low voltage) zip cords on the IKEA lights are a bit smaller and an easy fit.

    So, you would split your zip cord conductors by pushing a knife blade in between them at the location where you want the switch. Separate them only enough to cut exactly one inch out of either one of the conductors, leaving two short split wires a bit over one half inch long. Strip one half inch of insulation off of each wire, leaving about one eighth inch of split apart insulation on each wire. Twist both bare wires very tightly to hold all the fine wires together. Lay one stripped wire into a crimp and fold three sharp fingers down on it with slip joint pliers (set close). Then fold down the other 3 fingers on the other side of the crimp. Run the uncut wire underneath the switch. Crimp the other stripped wire. Solder two connections quickly enough to avoid melting the plastic. On the low voltage lights, I just squeezed the crimps tightly and did not bother with soldering as they hold very firmly and the case halves clamp the zip cord when together. Assemble the case halves around the switch and squeeze the case together, alternating between the two ends with your slip joint pliers (set wide) until the case is closed fully. Case closed!

    I like the way these switches work. And this is a reasonable price for an in-line switch. And, no, I don’t work for Sparkfun!

  • Tutorial - Digital Caliper Battery Hack | about 2 years ago

    If you measure current, you will see that the power off state draws 90% of the current of the power on state. For some reason, all electronic calipers seem to be this way- power off is actually display (only) off. THIS is why the batteries go bad quickly.

    I just open the caliper case, cut the battery trace (which one doesn’t matter), drill two holes to allow the fine (wire wrap) wire to come out the top to a micro-miniature slide switch glued to the top. I always turn the switch off, rather than press some caliper “off” button, and find that a button cell lasts for many years. I would attach a picture if Sparkfun allowed, but it doesn’t. Caliper thickness is unchanged, and the outline is very nearly unchanged.

No public wish lists :(