Due to the impacts of the coronavirus outbreak, we are experiencing longer than normal lead times on certain products. We encourage back-ordering out-of-stock items to receive them as soon as possible.
Track My Order
Frequently Asked Questions
International Shipping Info
Mon-Fri, 9am to 12pm and
1pm to 5pm U.S. Mountain Time:
Chat With Us
July 30, 2012
about 5 years ago
I had endless problem with mine on Windows 7 64bit on an HP dm4. It worked sometimes and not others. I'd get a mismatch error. I have spent a lot of time debugging and trying things. I downloaded Xloader to load hex files for my Nano based projects and on a whim decide to try using it with the usbtiny. It seemed to work reliably. So I moved the avrdude.exe and .conf file from the Xloader dir to the Arduino tools/avr/bin and /etc dirs. Now it seems to work reliably from the Arduino dev environment, The create date of the working avrdude is March 18, 2012 and it is 1,922,788 bytes. I cannot find a version number easily. I loaded this into a Arduino 1.06 install. I hope this helps folks.
about 6 years ago
Still having issues with this using drivers here.
about 7 years ago
I used a photo Darlington (from NTE) with a 10K resistor pulled high on the collector, emitter to GND, and connected the collector to EN to make my circuit only operate after dark. So, I can charge with a solar panel during the day and run arduino lights at night automatically. I put a switch across the EN to GND connection in parallel with the Darlington so I can switch the whole thing off manually.
If you put a large cap (~10,000 uF) across the solar panel it will work much better for charging. Otherwise the current will porpoise up and down and the charger never really gets to go through it's cycle without interruption. Adding the cap smooths out the current and stabilizes the whole system, making it much more efficient.
Note - just use a standard electrolytic cap. Supercaps do not seem to work well for this.
about 8 years ago
If you are planning on using SPI, as for example with Total Control Lighting, you will need to connect to the SCK pin on what would be D13 on a through-hole on the back of the board. It does not connect to a pad. It is not solder masked so you can solder to it. You can figure out which one it is by tracing from the surface mount LED back through its resistor.
I have managed to solder to this twice on two boards with good results. Then I applied a ton of hot glue to keep the wires from pulling off.
No public wish lists :(