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Member Since: March 18, 2008

Country: United States

  • Minor errata: 3Arms => 3A or 3 amps

  • Hey, ran a workshop recently using these and discovered that they work after the carbon foam has been removed. They come plugged into it to protect the pins, but it looks to me like there's enough conductivity that the crosstalk or drain or something's high enough to cause misbehavior. Foam off, good to go!

  • You know Nate, I've crossed the Pit of Despair on two separate occasions with the help of Sparkfun. I'm sure you guys realize that an order of 200 widgets ain't exactly tinkering, and I've built your lovely goods into short run, quick turnaround products.

    Real Pit-swinging takes a very particular variety of DFA- minimizing joints over all other parameters. Every solder joint increases the assembly time and provides more opportunities for failure. It's also helpful to live near a university as a source of cheap soldering labor. Hiring students is far smarter than imposing on your friends, especially when you're making a profit.

    Thanks for all the support over the years!

  • Hey Jw, was just about to design a really similar board- only with a microUSB and a boost convertor on it! Would love to use your eagle files as a jumping-off. You can hit me via dick{at}gra.in . Thankya!

  • Hey Bruce, I was just about to do the same thing! Care to share? Hit me at dick[at]gra(dot)in (yes, Indian domain), would love to chat about it.

  • This worked woooonderfully, btw. So, so, so easy to just solder the Darlington directly to the Pro Mini. Used this configuration in 3 projects so far, and stocking up for more.

  • Anyone know if I can drive this directly off 3.3V? Works great with 5V, and the pinout lines up perfectly with the Pro Mini.

  • Remember that the response time on these is very long, somewhere in the 50-100ms range, so it's difficult to use them for transient events (like, say, laser triplines).

No public wish lists :(