Member Since: March 30, 2008

Country: United States

  • Product TOL-10706 | about 4 months ago

    Mine died after sitting in a closet for a year. Anyone have experience repairing these? For a while I had to slap the case to make the temperature display turn on, and the air heat up. But now no matter what I do, I just get cold air blowing out, with nothing on the temperature display. Sounds like a loose connection or bad solder joint somewhere, but where?

  • Product TOL-10706 | about 2 years ago

    Anyone have a good tutorial for how to solder SMD parts using this hot air station? Do you just point the nozzle at the part and go, or is it necessary to use another heater to preheat the board first, and follow a specific heating/cooling profile? Also can I get away with pre-tinning the pads with normal solder, instead of solder paste? The paste seems like a pain in the butt since it needs to be kept refrigerated, and I don’t want to keep it in the kitchen with my dinner, or pay distributors extra money to overnight ship it in a cool pack.

  • Product KIT-09882 | about 3 years ago

    The CCV084 buzzer has a resistance of only 16 ohms– could somebody explain why it’s OK to connect it directly between two digital output pins, without a current-limiting resistor? When the buzzer is on, I would think it would draw 5V / 16 = 312 mA, which would damage the ATmega.

  • Product LCD-10168 | about 3 years ago

    Ack! After two days of working nicely with 0x15 bias, I reset the board today, and the LCD appeared way over-dark. I changed the bias back to 0x14 and it looks perfect. What the heck?! I think there must be some temperature-sensing or temperature-dependence going on, so the same init values may produce good-looking results one day but not the next.

  • Product LCD-10168 | about 3 years ago

    I found the LCD bias value must be set to 0x15 to get good constrast consistently.
    Using a 3V source, my LCD often worked OK using bias 0x14 like the other examples, but sometimes it would appear gray and faded. The fading would lessen if I touched the panel lightly with my hand for a few seconds, then let go, so maybe it’s a temperature-dependent thing?
    After writing a program to let me interactively adjust Vop, temperature coefficient, and bias, and experimenting with different values, I found that bias 0x15 worked much, much better than 0x14. I’m also using Vop 0xD0 and temperature coeff 0x04, but those don’t seem to matter as much.
    I also noticed an error that’s repeated in many of the examples:
    0x14, //set bias mode to 1:48.
    0x14 is not 1:48 bias. If you read the datasheet on the top of page 16, 0x14 corresponds to a bias of 1:40/1:34. If you want 1:48 bias as the comment says, use 0x13. The 0x15 value I’m using corresponds to 1:24 bias.

  • Product LCD-00256 | about 4 years ago

    @Twiddler: Yes, it’s possible to write too fast. Check the write cycle timings in the datasheet. The enable signal can’t be cycled faster than 2MHz. Also after each command sent to the LCD, you have to wait until the busy flag is clear, or delay several microseconds to milliseconds (depending on which command).

  • Tutorial - Better PCBs in Eagle | about 4 years ago

    As a noob designing my first PCB, I found this tutorial incredibly helpful. Restrings? Tenting? It’s all beginning to make sense. My first board is now off to BatchPCB. Awesome job, thank you!

  • News - iFOB This | about 5 years ago

    Hey, when did you get the Expo Hall floorplan for the Maker Faire? I’ve also got a (much smaller) booth at the faire, and I haven’t heard diddly-squat yet about where the booth will be located.

No public wish lists :(