avatar

Sembazuru

Member Since: October 17, 2012

Country: United States

  • For the longest time when I was growing up our main TV was a HeathKit that my father assembled, and never got around to putting an enclosure around… I’m sure now-a-days that would be criminal endangerment of a minor (two counts, one for me, one for my brother)… Neither my brother nor I hurt ourselves by putting our hands inside. Not for fear of HV electricity… No, that was fear of the Wrath of Dad. ;-)

  • A couple points about the video.

    1. Water soluble flux core solder: Ok, the water soluble flux is easier to clean because water will clean the residue off. But, you MUST clean the flux residue where regular RMA flux is only a should clean the flux off. This is because the water soluble flux is much more hygroscopic than RMA or RA fluxes. So, under normal humidity conditions water soluble flux residue will actively promote corroding the board…

    2. 710°(I’m guessing F here… you don’t specify) is still pretty hot for regular solder. I usually use 650°F which might still be a bit on the hot side… Is the solder you are using lead-free? That might explain the need for 710°F… Ok… I just got to the point where you are soldering, and I can see from the way the surface finish goes matte when it cools, you are using lead-free solder.

    3. While I generally like the SparkFun large models (I really like the large iron tip with the explanation of what part of the tip to use), I don’t like the large chocolate kiss example for a good soldering joint. If a soldering joint looks like that I would worry about poor whetting to the solder pad because the bottom comes in towards the center.

    Otherwise good video.

  • In order for the triangulation to happen, there has to be some amount of reflection (illumination) of the target surface. If the target surface is able to absorb more of the IR light than reflect (or if the surface reflects too much light away from the sensor) then the sensor will never see the IR light and can’t get a reading. Thus IR absorbing materials and highly polished surfaces at an angle to the sensor won’t get good readings.

  • Another use for distance/proximity sensors is trip wire applications. While not as simple to use as a PIR sensor, the sensed area is much more focused. Don’t even need to do the calculations to get an actual distance, just watch the signal to see if it changes suddenly. I used it in a past project to turn on a hallway lamp when the front door opens. (The closest power outlet was at the opposite end of the hallway from the door, and it was a rented apartment so I wasn’t about to wire in a new outlet.)

    Perfect for trigger applications like turning on lights, making noises, or setting off confetti/glitter claymores. ;-)

  • I was confused on the video for the new Arduino MKR Vidor 4000 where it was mentioned and written on the video (at 0:13) the “2MB QSPY”. I honestly don’t know what “QSPY” is. Looking into the actual specs on the web page I see that it should have been “2MB QSPI”, and probably more clearly as “2MB QSPI Flash”.

    Also, since QSPI is fairly new to the Arduino crowd, maybe a quick sentence or two telling us that it is like SPI but there are 4 half-duplex data lines instead of the two full-duplex data lines in regular SPI. So QSPI can be up to 4 times faster sending or receiving data than regular SPI at the same clock speed.

  • Oh, I thought they were actual decommissioned 3.5" floppies.

  • You didn’t mention them (or I missed it), but I like your coasters.

  • Mountain holes… Those are common on volcanic mountains. Calderas, fumaroles, lava tubes, etc.

  • Cute reference to being one handed. Hope your wing heals quickly.

  • To connect your rods to your extruder holder (and also possibly the linear bearing holders), have you thought about bearings? I just checked at McMaster and they do have ball bearings that go mighty small (granted the price is inversely proportional to size…), even down to 40mil ID. I was thinking about the ball-joint rod bearing ends (they go down to 6-32 rod w/ 1/8" ID attachment), but you probably want to constrain the range of motion to one axis…