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Sembazuru

Member Since: October 17, 2012

Country: United States

  • Thanx for the clarification. Easy enough mistake to make.

  • Question about the XBee modules. For the speed is the text or Rob right? For the RF speed both match (kilobytes per second or KBps), but for the serial speed there is a mismatch. Rob says "1 megabyte per second", but the text is written as 1Mbps which is one megabit per second. Did Rob just accidentally misread his notes? (I'm not trying to blame him, it is an easy mistake to make.)

  • I wasn't able to get the google search driven color picker using your search term. But, this one worked: color picker tool

  • You may not find specifically these poke-home connectors, but search other vendors for "spring terminal blocks". Several manufacturers make similar things.

  • Oh, two missed design opportunities with these new products...

    LumiDrive LED Driver: What, no QWIK connector? The SDA and SCL pins of the SAMD21 aren't even being used.

    LuMini LED Rings: Removable mounting tabs should be electrically in parallel to the input connector pads to more easily use these in wearables (integrated with lilypads). Yes, the smallest one would need two more mounting tabs, but 4 on the outside and two on the inside wouldn't be too crowded.

    I'm not all full of criticism today, though. I do like the use of the spring tension terminal blocks on the LED driver instead of screw terminals that have infested hobby electronics. Also, nice to see more things embracing the microcontroller Python environments (micro..., circuit..., etc). But I don't see any mention here or on the product page (and I'm too lazy to look up the partnumber on the schematic) about the size of the SPI flash. How big is it, and how large of a "thumb drive" will one see on their computer for python code and associated data files?

  • For instance, due to limited range of motion in my shoulders (thanks indirectly to my physical handicap), I can NOT wear a “pull-over” sweater, and cardigans (button-up) sweaters have become scarce due mainly to the fashion dictators.

    I hear you. Try buying a station wagon (I don't want a crossover, and hatchbacks are too small) on today's US car market without paying for a premium brand like Volvo (though I do like the look of their wagons). The used market of these beasts is getting slim. Yet, last time I was in Europe (Sweden 9-10 years ago... damn, has it been that long?) most of the rentals were wagons (and standard transmission).

  • For the longest time when I was growing up our main TV was a HeathKit that my father assembled, and never got around to putting an enclosure around... I'm sure now-a-days that would be criminal endangerment of a minor (two counts, one for me, one for my brother)... Neither my brother nor I hurt ourselves by putting our hands inside. Not for fear of HV electricity... No, that was fear of the Wrath of Dad. ;-)

  • A couple points about the video.

    1. Water soluble flux core solder: Ok, the water soluble flux is easier to clean because water will clean the residue off. But, you MUST clean the flux residue where regular RMA flux is only a should clean the flux off. This is because the water soluble flux is much more hygroscopic than RMA or RA fluxes. So, under normal humidity conditions water soluble flux residue will actively promote corroding the board...

    2. 710°(I'm guessing F here... you don't specify) is still pretty hot for regular solder. I usually use 650°F which might still be a bit on the hot side... Is the solder you are using lead-free? That might explain the need for 710°F... Ok... I just got to the point where you are soldering, and I can see from the way the surface finish goes matte when it cools, you are using lead-free solder.

    3. While I generally like the SparkFun large models (I really like the large iron tip with the explanation of what part of the tip to use), I don't like the large chocolate kiss example for a good soldering joint. If a soldering joint looks like that I would worry about poor whetting to the solder pad because the bottom comes in towards the center.

    Otherwise good video.

  • In order for the triangulation to happen, there has to be some amount of reflection (illumination) of the target surface. If the target surface is able to absorb more of the IR light than reflect (or if the surface reflects too much light away from the sensor) then the sensor will never see the IR light and can't get a reading. Thus IR absorbing materials and highly polished surfaces at an angle to the sensor won't get good readings.

  • Another use for distance/proximity sensors is trip wire applications. While not as simple to use as a PIR sensor, the sensed area is much more focused. Don't even need to do the calculations to get an actual distance, just watch the signal to see if it changes suddenly. I used it in a past project to turn on a hallway lamp when the front door opens. (The closest power outlet was at the opposite end of the hallway from the door, and it was a rented apartment so I wasn't about to wire in a new outlet.)

    Perfect for trigger applications like turning on lights, making noises, or setting off confetti/glitter claymores. ;-)