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October 27, 2012
Product TOL-12029 |
about 8 months ago
The description says it has a nozzle diameter of 5mm. Is that in reference to the hole at the end of the tip?
Product COM-11966 |
about 9 months ago
If that’s the case, please correct the features for the locking versions which says ‘(1NO1NC/2NO2NC)’. The voltage drop on the LEDs would be nice, too, in case 5V isn’t handy — a regulator seems a bit much for one LED. Thanks.
Product COM-11971 |
about 9 months ago
The features describe the operation as having two NO contacts and two NC contacts: 1NO1NC/2NO2NC. However, in the comments section of the momentary red switch, RobertC.’s description implies there is only one circuit when he says of the pins
three are for the switch and two are for the LED
which is what I would have assumed without any description. I know these things are really simple but a wiring diagram or just a better picture of the pins' labels would clear this up.
Product DEV-11851 |
about 11 months ago
The datasheet does claim it’s panel-mount ready but the real hitch for most hobbyists, of course, is manufacturing membranes for the buttons or designing a knob for the pot. That being said, as everything on this shield appears to be PTH, it would be fairly easy to remove the buttons, bring them to the case and use either jumper wires or a custom cable (perhaps after creating a small custom board for the buttons). This approach also enables replacement of the provided buttons with ones that better suit the needs of a build, for example, SFE’s concave panel-mount buttons or their 5-way Tactile Switch. I would also imagine that the screen itself can be detached and replaced with any equivalent 16x2 that uses the HD44780 interface if a different colour is desired or a different orientation to the case is required. I believe all of SFE’s 5V screens of that size would therefore work.
Product COM-11473 |
This could be a great fail-safe mechanism. If you assume there’s only one key on hand with two switches (or another number based on some other pattern of multiple switches) and you altered the holes to lock the keys in, either open or closed, then you could restrict whether one switch could be flipped based on the position of the other one.
This is the same type of logic used in industrial safety systems e.g. until you turn on the cooling system, you can’t remove the very same key required to turn on the reactor core and while the core is running, you can’t remove the key, preventing the cooling system from being turned off and protecting the system.
The idea behind these is that most people don’t have any kind of tool regularly on hand which could turn this switch. That makes this a relatively secure switch mechanism whereas the other key switch SparkFun offers is more of a novelty because it can be turned fairly easily with a screwdriver or something similar.
Therefore, I would classify this as more tamperproof than secure. The average person who encounters won’t be able to engage it but don’t use it where anything too tempting is at stake.
Product COM-11147 |
In order to weatherise:
a) fill the translucent cup/plug with silicone and insert the LED before it dries, then trim the excess
b) thoroughly smear the outside of the cup/plug with silicone and insert it into the chromed piece before the silicone dries
c) stop by your friendly neighbourhood hardware store and pick up a rubber or neoprene washer and install it between the nylon nut and the panel
I also recommend checking out oznium.com. It’s a site that has a great selection of specialty LEDs and related products not found here at SparkFun. It’s focused mainly on automotive applications but nearly everything could be used elsewhere, although some things are prewired for 12V. There are a number of modules which are waterproof out of the box.
Product TOL-10719 |
It would definitely destroy it. Instead, look for Hakko’s CM shape tip. The CM is just like this tip but the flat face is concave, exactly what you seem to be wanting. SparkFun doesn’t sell it unfortunately.
Soldering tips are typically constructed with a core material covered by a protective jacket layer. A big part of the jacket’s purpose is to protect the core from oxidation and erosion. However, for the purposes of heat transfer, it is really thin. That’s why you should never use steel wool or sandpaper (e.g. aluminium oxide) to clean residue off tips — it’s best to use soft brass with tip cleaner if absolutely necessary but even then you have to be gentle. Any kind of ‘well’ or depression you made in the tip would quickly erode out in addition to harming the tip’s heat transfer.
Product TOL-08696 |
I see that these have ‘Copper Only’ printed on them. I often come across aluminium wire when I’m salvaging parts from industrially manufactured consumer electronics. How screwed up would these get if I happened to occasionally use them to strip aluminium wire? Would getting a second pair of these to use exclusively for aluminium be the best choice or should I look elsewhere for aluminium specific strippers?
Product COM-11289 |
about a year ago
The first thing that came to mind for me was heated seats in my car. Just peel back the fabric and tape these things down. My question is whether these could hold up to both the direct pressure and the rubbing involved. Could I get an answer to how durable these things are? Thanks.
No public wish lists :(