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January 29, 2013
Product PRT-11487 |
about 5 months ago
Automotive tool dealerships often carry a purpose-made “spade connector” crimping tool (often packaged with a bajillion different spade connectors to try it out on).
But like Omnikrys says, the “crocodile jaw” wire stripper can be used to do the job quite nicely.
The only difference between my crimper and my wire stripper is that the wire stripper works like a pair of pliers with the handles on the opposite side of the pivot to the jaws o' crimping, whereas the crimper has longer handles and the crimping jaw is on the handle side of the pivot, making for less precision but more brute force.
Product COM-11323 |
about 10 months ago
I was using the 12 volt inverter you guys sent me a couple of weeks ago, which I adapted to purpose by fitting a sequencer compatible jumper to the DC power input side. This has been verified as properly polarized by experiment outside of the sequencer board.
Power was being derived from a 12v (alarm system/ups type) lead acid gel battery that has given good service driving other inverter-driven effects (I’m planning on incorporating sequenced EL Wire in an existing steampunk prop). I installed a temporary (but securely attached) jumper to sj1 for the test run, which ran for about two minutes with some odd artifacts before the Zap O' Disappointment was heard.
Bridging between the center contact of the switch and the cross-connected input of the mic5219 lights power-up LED from USB-derived volts (haven’t tried with 12v). Repair is proving challenging owing to proximity of a socket to the damaged area.
As for the location: If you study the picture of the plan view of the component side of the board on this page (the middle pic), to the right there are three white sockets for input DC power, DC inverter supply out and inverter AC in jumpers. Directly above the uppermost socket (as viewed in the picture) you can see where the PCB track from the center pin of the USB/BATT switch dips down, around the rightmost switch terminal on its way to the mic5219. Where that track appears to touch the white socket is where the damage occurred, and the straight section ducking around the switch is pretty much severed and lifted from the board now.
There was solder residue on these track ends when I cleaned the board and attempted to gently burnish the copper back into place - with a screwdriver made for replacing kneecaps on gnats - pending some sort of clever repair. (The track is far too badly dinged up though, and for a repair I may have to solder a jumper directly from the switch tab to one of the mic5219 inputs).
As you were.
Once I cleaned up the board and had a good look with m' trusty folding magnifier under decent light and poked it with m' DVOM it turned out that the soot all over the mic5219 wasn’t from the mic5219, but from an adjacent pcbtrack that looks to have been bridged using solder which for some reason vaporized, leaving an open circuit. When bridged using a bit o' wire with a portable 3v supply connected to the power socket, the power LED burst into life again so it looks like a relatively simple repair. Still don’t know why whatever it was blew in the first place.
It looks like the track was open circuit at some point and had been repaired with a solder bridge, and the repair blew out. Should be an easy fix, like I say. Onward and upward.
Product COM-11323 |
about 11 months ago
Well, there went the shooting match.
I followed the directions on the schematic for powering up the board and the 12v inverter for a test prior to some reprogramming, using a 12v lead acid battery for main power, the 12v sparkfun inverter and a short across SJ1, and after about two minutes the mic 5219 burned out in a puff of magic smoke. How disappointing.
Before that I noticed that upon powering on the first couple of cycles were not reliably sequential, but everything settled down eventually. A reset sometimes produced a good sequential start, sometimes not. It looked like it was hit and miss.
Anyone else see this behavior? Can I get replacement parts to resurrect the board or am I out the time and investment? I can’t see the voltage controller listed as an available component here. 8o(
I have replaced my old, retired sequencer with the new all-singing, all-dancing version as depicted here, have attached headers to the board with my awesome solderin' skillz, connected it to my laptop with the FTDI cable and fired up the Arduino dashboard thingy. There is a red LED and a green LED glowing with the glow of not-buggering-it-up. All should be well.
My Arduino software has bound to COM6, not COM1 which my motherboard does not expose. Does anyone know if this will cause problems?
What board compatibility should I select in the menu? I see lots of ATmega328 boards, but no ATmega328P. The older tutorial mentions an Arduino Escuda but that isn’t an available selection on my dashboard.
Any help anyone can give will be very gratefully received.
No public wish lists :(