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June 6, 2008
about 3 years ago
2 minutes with a soldering iron seems to have fixed it - had to tweak it back into a position with good contact, but it feels happy now - thanks for the reflow tip. Back to being loyal SparkFun customer, albeit through LittleBird these days.
The reflow hint was great - I resoldered both sides of the connector, tweaked it into a position with good contact, and now it seems ok. I might add some superglue, but like I say, it has a dedicated cable now, so there should be very little stress on the connector. And yeah, clearly it’s not like you can step up to a more robust connector without compromising the size and utility of the board - now that I’ve resoldered it feels fine.
Just saying, as someone who bought a ProMicro and has the same problem, this is a really disappointing response. If I buy something from a company with whom I have had good experiences before (as I have with SparkFun), and the product has an issue, I’ll chalk it up to a bad batch, or a one-off design problem, and keep spending money there. If the company response is not far short of calling customers liars and refusing to acknowledge the problem, then I won’t.
about 4 years ago
Sorry for the delay! I’m in the middle of moving house, but I’m also in the middle of building a mini motion control system, so I’ll put up some photos and instructions for both those approaches.
about 4 years ago
Except that then when the power goes off, people can steal your stuff. There are solutions that provide the best of both worlds - power to open the door so that the solenoid isn’t permanently powered up, and a manual override to release the lock from inside if the power fails. That is, of course, what happens with a powered strike plate - the handle itself remains “stock” so you can always use the door as designed.
There are a few ways, but you don’t really mount it on the motor itself, generally. For small motors, one of 2 solutions:
a) On the shaft of the motor, in addition to whatever you’re using for drive, you can have a gear/pulley that links to the encoder. Depending on your setup, this can also let you have a large gear/pulley on the motor going to a small gear/pulley on the encoder, so a 200 ppr encoder will have a much finer resolution in terms of motor revolutions. So whatever you’ve bolted your motor to, bolt your encoder to the same thing and have gears/belts/whatever between them.
b) Attach the encoder to the thing actually being driven. We use encoders like this in theatre a lot for automated scenery, and for a lot of things, you don’t actually care about how far the motor has moved, only how far the scenery has moved. While they are almost always the same, if your drive system has any potential for slip (belt drive, friction drives, etc), you want to measure the thing moving, not the motor itself.
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