Member Since: February 19, 2013

Country: Canada

  • I would like to remove the 10K resistor from VIN to EN and connect it from EN to GND. Following the trace, it looks lite it’s the one right next to the big cap by the USB jack. It looks like it is soldered right on top of the via. Could you confirm this? Could you also recomend an iron temperature for the type of solder used to assemble the board?

  • What I’d like to see is a table (grid?) showing every ‘block’ / module in a standard orientation (eg. receptacle facing up in the lower, left corner) and listing whether it has a receptacle, a plug, or both.

  • How about 2 ribbon cables, one going left, one going right, to 2 breadboards…

  • I had a couple of ideas. I read that these connectors are available for FPC. Maybe you could make some ribbon jumpers that would allow boards to be connected at larger than standard spacing or go around obstacles (like the battery) ie. one plug and one receptacle on the same face of the ribbon so when you fold the ribbon it becomes an adjustable height extension. Another possibility would be a ribbon with two or three receptacles on top, spaced out, so you could have multiple stacks with terminating (ie. non stackable) modules on top of each. (and the flexibility to make something like a bracelet)

  • It’s a shame you don’t have a slightly smaller battery that would fit beside (north of) a stacking connector and/or a JST connector to add to or replace the smaller battery outside of the stack. :smile:

  • Can the battery block and the OLED block be connected at the same time?

  • This looks great! I love the necklace here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/ksr/assets/001/729/494/a53a8d25d4579ed7322a7c33b5bc3d40_large.gif?1394454823 I can’t imagine wearing one though, with the pins poking and scratching my neck. Maybe it would be better with female headers. Double headers (like these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/117 ) could be inserted to put it in a bread-board. For small projects male jumper wires could be inserted. Perhaps the female headers could be parallel to the face so jumper wires could be inserted while it is laying flat on the table and right angle headers inserted for bread-boarding.

  • I am a little confused. Under ‘Dimensions’ it says 18mm OD but in the photo it appears to be considerably larger than the standard 24.2mm size reference. What’s with that?

  • That would require four SSRs and an inverter (one more transistor) and would stop accurately simulating a mechanical relay whenever the 5V supply was removed. (unless you used Normally Closed SSRs)

  • Speaking of LEDs not coming on, most relay output boards I have seen (in industry) have the indicator in series with the ‘coil’ so if the light is on you know the current is flowing through the coil and if the light is off you know that current isn’t flowing through the coil. With the current circuit, there are several places where a cold solder joint could cause a false positive or a false negative. i.e. You could have the indicator be on but no output or the output be on but no indicator.

No public wish lists :(