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February 19, 2013
News - Enginursday: Introducing … |
about 3 days ago
This looks great! I love the necklace here:
I can’t imagine wearing one though, with the pins poking and scratching my neck. Maybe it would be better with female headers. Double headers (like these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/117 ) could be inserted to put it in a bread-board. For small projects male jumper wires could be inserted. Perhaps the female headers could be parallel to the face so jumper wires could be inserted while it is laying flat on the table and right angle headers inserted for bread-boarding.
Product DEV-11260 |
about 4 months ago
I am a little confused. Under ‘Dimensions’ it says 18mm OD but in the photo it appears to be considerably larger than the standard 24.2mm size reference.
What’s with that?
Product KIT-10684 |
about 5 months ago
That would require four SSRs and an inverter (one more transistor) and would stop accurately simulating a mechanical relay whenever the 5V supply was removed. (unless you used Normally Closed SSRs)
Speaking of LEDs not coming on, most relay output boards I have seen (in industry) have the indicator in series with the ‘coil’ so if the light is on you know the current is flowing through the coil and if the light is off you know that current isn’t flowing through the coil. With the current circuit, there are several places where a cold solder joint could cause a false positive or a false negative. i.e. You could have the indicator be on but no output or the output be on but no indicator.
How about 24 VAC, such as a furnace thermostat circuit?
What would be acceptable creepage distance for 120 VAC ? Should there be a slot in the board, or would it be enough to turn the SSR 90 degrees?
Also, is the heatsink tab isolated?
No public wish lists :(