MattiasF

Member Since: March 3, 2013

Country: United States

  • Going down this road right now with a ½" aluminum plate on order. Is this strategy still good for hobbyists or is there any even better method? Thinking of putting the plate on a cheap electric burner but not quite sure which brand to use. Any suggestions?

  • I just did a bit of tinkering getting PIR sensors to work at 3.3v and wrote up my findings on a page. With some sensors it’s pretty easy to get it to work with 3.3v: http://techgurka.blogspot.com/2013/05/cheap-pyroelectric-infrared-pir-motion.html

  • I did a little project to get back into electronics using this sensor and your Electric Imp breakout last weekend. This blog may help someone that has the same idea :) http://techgurka.blogspot.com/2013/04/quick-temperature-graph-using-electric.html

  • I’m also curious/excited about this but confused. I’d love to put an Arduino Pro Mini 3.3v directly on this board for basic sensor processing instead of waiting for the programmable XBee. Is this possible? Can I put pins right from this board into a Pro Mini? I would assume it would be a Pro Mini 3.3v since the XBee is 3.3v?

    Edit: Joe User above is probably right. It’s an end-to-end connection, not stacking. Still, the Pro Mini should still be fine but the Explorer end connector is 5v so you need to bring the 3.3v over if you want to use the Pro Mini 3.3v. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

  • Missing the data sheet under the Documents section: https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/ProtoBoardv1-DS.pdf

  • FYI I almost destroyed my board trying to use this solder with your TOL-09507 30W iron. Granted I’m just now picking up soldering again but after hopping down to RadioShack to get some old fashioned lead-based 60/40 solder, I completed my project in no time.

    I suspect you need a classy soldering iron when you use classy solder :)