Track My Order
Frequently Asked Questions
International Shipping Info
Mon-Fri, 9am to 12pm and
1pm to 5pm U.S. Mountain Time:
Chat With Us
September 16, 2013
Nice to see that this product lives on (=gets updated). :-)
I still don’t understand why you have two jacks for “passthrough” when a simple 3.5 mm stereo splitter is a rather cheap and flexible solution.
It would possibly make sense if you had some sort of “jumper” so that you could separate them and one as input and the other as modified/filtered output based on your own MSGEQ7 code but as far as I can see there are just straight traces between the two jacks.
IMHO a compact MSEQ7 breakout board would probably be more convenient in several cases (compact speaker builds etc).
It would be very convenient to either have a small board with the necessary MCU pins in one end, audio “LGR” pins in the other end and two MSEQ7 chips with checked/“tuned” support components in the middle
a similar compact board with a single 3.5 mm jack in the “audio” end and all 8 pins (VCC, GND, Reset, Strobe, AnalogOutL, AnalogOutR, AudioInL ,AudioInR) on the other end.
That way you could use it as a slightly longer but much smarter version of the 3.5 mm jack breakout board.
about a year ago
Regarding the section about the charger-circuitry on this block:
is it meant as classic “charge or discharge” charger circuit or will it power the Edison AND the charger as long as you have the USB/Vin connected (=mini-UPS for power outages)?
about a year ago
Is there any space left on this board design to add a BMP180 (or similar) barometer?
With a 10 DoF block like that you wouldn’t need to connect a standalone barometer sensor if you wanted to make an R/C flight controller or something like that. :-)
One possible downside might be that any block stacked on top might interfere with the pressure readings if it gets too close…?
about 2 years ago
I’ve been thinking about combining these into a dense matrix but that decoupling cap' gets in the way.
One solution would be to place the decoupling cap' right in the center of the solderpads, either on the bottom of the PCB or with some strange riser/spacer (a custom cut piece of PCB?) between the LED and the PCB solder pads.
Using (pieces of) throughhole pins or SMD zero-Ohm “resistors” as “solder pad raiser” sounds like a possible solution as well, just to add some space beneath the LED but surfacetension alignment of the LED and “raisers” may not be precise enough in those cases.
Would the production costs skyrocket by the addition of components on both sides of a PCB or would it still be commercially viable?
What does the SparkFun product development team have to say about that idea? :)
The KK flight controller boards are based on a 20 MHz single...
I’ve been wanting to do a small BoB with one single...
Forgot your password?
No account? Register one!