Member Since: September 29, 2008

Country: United States



Independent software and web developer located in Great Falls, Montana


Owner of Trailhead Interactive

Spoken Languages


Programming Languages

C, C++, C#, VB, Perl, PHP, JavaScript, ActionScript


Microsoft Alumni


Web development


Kites, snowkiting, electronics


  • Apparently not. I'm looking for a KiCad footprint, but Eagle would work too. The CAD drawing in the datasheet is terrible and the dimensions don't add up. Also, the pictures show that there are 2 additional pads down the center. On the datasheets I see for this part on Chinese sites, they indicate that these pads should be connected to VCC and GND. Has anyone successfully used these and do you know if the two pads must be connected, or can be ignored?

  • Above it says "includes protection diodes so you can run multiple cells in series for an extra kick". This is misleading and should say multiple charger/boost boards in series instead of cells. The PAM2401 datasheet shows a max input voltage of 4.75V, which is less than 2 lipo cells in series. And the MCP73831 doesn't look like it will charge cells in series. Running cells in series would likely kill the board.

  • Can anyone tell me what the pad spacing is on the strip itself?

  • I don't see it in the specs, but just to be sure does this include a charge circuit? That would be sweet... Ahhh nevermind. Just read that it doesn't. :)

  • Where did you find a repo with a drawing? I have a Shapeoko 2 and the drawings for it were really good. But you might be right, I can't find a full set of drawings for this version.

  • Does the module need to be FCC certified to include it in a product, or just the ESP8266 chip?

  • If anyone has trouble with the address bits, note that the unsoldered pads represent a 1 in the address table. Soldering them changes them to 0. It makes sense if you look at the default address of 0x57 with no pads jumpered. Normally the eeprom keeps these low, but the proto cape has pullups so they are high by default.

  • Would thermite be acceptable?

  • Maybe I'm missing it on the datasheet, but I can't find the backlight voltage or current specifications for the 3.3v versions. I'm trying to calculate the current limiting resistor value.

  • I just got mine, and it looks like I can blind-mount it if I epoxy the front plate to my enclosure behind some 1/2 inch holes. Then I'll use some short self-tapping screws (maybe a #4, 1/4" long) that only go into the black front plate of the button assembly. The trick is keeping the screws short enough that they don't pop out the front of the enclosure.
    One problem is that the mounting holes are much too close to the switch terminals. Anything other than a TINY screw head might touch the pcb traces for the switch.

No public wish lists :(