caseyh

Member Since: October 15, 2008

Country: United States

  • Any trick or tips to boost the loudness of this element when using it as a speaker? It’s pretty quiet on it’s own – even with 5V PWM. I understand it is a transducer and, sure, it works great under a pint of beer. I was hoping to make something loud, yet, low profile with this.

  • Can this sensor be used to continuously monitor pH, for example, in a pool setting?

  • Pro Tip: To program without having to connect/disconnect this shield, pull the jumper closest to the edge of the PCB (“MRX”). Just make sure you replace it in the correct position!

    Note that these jumpers do not appear on the schematic or the picture indicated. Not clear what any of these do.

  • Review: Not impressed at all, but at least it works.

    This board shows up in a neat little box, with unsoldered headers. This is really annoying and the picture here is a bit deceiving. The whole point was to save time and not break out my soldering iron station. Heck, if i knew this, i’d be happy with a bucket of parts – because it would probably take an equal amount of time anyway. Okay, so fine, i solder it up…causing the beautiful silkscreen flood to turn a golden marshmallow brown around the headers.

    The product description brags how it can connect to “equipment and automation prototyping” and implies that it operates as an old computer with a serial port. Great, well, how about just a modem? that sounds simple. Wrong. Not only does this shield sport the wrong gender of DB9, but the transmit and receive pins are swapped! To connect something like a modem (or serial printer, or other serial device), better get yourself a null modem and two Male-Male DB9 connectors. (good luck finding a male-male null modem combo cable). Also, don’t bother purchasing the DB9 serial cable on sparkfun with this. It won’t do you any good.

    The shield mostly fits my Mega, however, the board hits the USB jack before it can make a completely solid connection (although its secure enough to where i haven’t seen an issue). The RS232 cable and USB are also very snug with one another. It should fit any other arduino Uno on up, assuming the header pattern is the classic pattern.

    And finally, no flow control pins are wired up. Yes, the MAX232 would support it just fine, but it appears that nobody ever thought someone would want this. Thankfully it is not in my application, but I know some other folks who really find this useful.

  • Any chance the WAV Trigger firmware itself can be open sourced? I would love to have a few more features on this, including the ability to write WAV files to the SD card over serial, as well as increase the number of supported samples.

  • My logger has been running for over a year now in Seattle: http://nwrs.net/radiation/

    Typically, not much happens, but occasionally i get some interesting “upset events”. I am not sure if it is the hardware wigging out, or if these are real. The sensor is on a table facing a corner of my house with nothing disturbing it. it is not pointing up either.

    Had a burst of 1314 cpm last month with similarly high peaks for over an hour: http://nwrs.net/RadiationBurst-043012.png

    also, had a similar event that only lasted about a half hour in july: http://seattlewireless.net/~casey/?p=129

    Anyone have any thoughts on this?

  • Talk about working out of the box. Highly recommend!!

  • Yes, you can transmit and receive anything between 260MHz and 960MHz. That being said, there is a filter in place that will probably significantly limit your range outside of its intended band of operation.

    Even at something like 550MHz, I have these things about 30 feet apart (with a couple of walls), and some random wire antenna of improper length, and they work fine using the RF22 Library’s datagram server/client. I see an RSSI of 125-130. No errors.

    The 550MHz setting is seeing much better SNR than the 433MHz setting, so I suspect these filters aren’t that tight.

  • These particular solderless pins make an extremely snug fit, so much that they are just as secure as soldered pins. I tried putting them in by hand, but that proved to be impossible. Using pliers and a bit of force, I was able to rock them back and forth by squeezing the plastic sides. Any other orientation, and you end up covering up the through hole with the other end of the pliers.

    These probably are not the best for temporary headers.

  • Any fix for this issue? I am having the exact same issues with 0023, OSX, and this board.

No public wish lists :(