signal7

Member Since: October 16, 2008

Country: United States

  • News - Enginursday: Adventures i… | about a month ago

    Did you check the acme catalog?

  • News - Enginursday: Adventures i… | about a month ago

    I wouldn’t be too worried about re-screwing. How many times are you planning to move? Will this desk fit in a room in every place you live?

    You can replace the plywood with each move and you can always drill new holes for the screws. By the time you run out of places to put screws, I’m pretty sure you’ll be ready to build a new workbench ;-) No one will know that there are other holes in the back except you.

  • News - Enginursday: Adventures i… | about a month ago

    Today, I don’t use anything fancy for mortises. A simple hand held drill and a mortise chisel is all that I use. It’s very fast - with some practice you can do a mortise in under 20 minutes start to finish. I do still use a table saw for tenons, but only because it’s faster than any other method.

  • News - Enginursday: Adventures i… | about a month ago

    Someone may have posted the suggestion already, but mortise & tenon joinery would make your bench very solid. I bought a router table top from Rockler and then proceeded to build the base using douglas fir 2x4’s. To make sure the base would be sturdy (and to provide a shelf under the router), I designed the base with two levels of horizontal rails just like you’ve done here for the base of your workbench.

    The only difference is that I took some extra time to mortise the legs and put tenons on the horizontal rails. That’s 16 mortises in total and far more time at the drill press than I realized. The resulting base is rock solid and does not move or flex when I’m using it. The reason I made the base instead of buying one? So I could make it the same height as my table saw and use it as an impromptu out-feed table. I also put levelers under the legs so I could eliminate potential wobble.

  • Product COM-00314 | about 2 months ago

    Technically, yes - IF you put it it a circuit designed for such a purpose. This component by itself will not do the job, but it will isolate one circuit from another with each side potentially operating at different Vcc values. I would recommend using a diode and capacitor on the AC side to rectify things to a somewhat choppy DC voltage which could then be fed to the LED side of this part. You would still need an independent 5v supply on the transistor side to detect changes in the AC input (actually, that’s exactly how I’m currently thinking of using this part).

  • Product TOL-11456 | about 2 months ago

    I haven’t put these on a scope, but I am using one of them to run a bluetooth audio gateway. I bought a BlueGate product off of Amazon that was powered by a lithium polymer battery. The charging circuit died after owning it about a month and, to be honest, the battery feature was a pain in the butt. When you plugged in the charger, it would not function as an audio gateway at all - it would only charge the battery (when it worked).

    I designed a simple circuit board to take the place of the battery, using a ldo regulator to drop the 5v incoming to 3.8 volts for the main circuit. I have about 20uF of capacitance on the output side and I can’t hear any power supply noise making it through to the output. It may not be exactly the same scenario, but these are cheap enough that if it were me, I would just try it and see what happened.

  • Product WRL-10822 | about 3 months ago

    The issue is with command termination. When you send $$$ to get into command mode, you must not follow that sequence with a carriage return or line feed. It’s in the data sheet. I use cutecom on a linux laptop and can turn off line endings to get to command mode, but then I have to turn them back on to actually change the settings. It’s annoying that it works that way.

  • Product WRL-10822 | about 3 months ago

    Just thought I’d let everyone know that these modules don’t work as advertised. There are numerous firmware issues with the 4.xx series update and Microchip isn’t responding to user submitted bug reports. I contacted them over a year ago reporting issues with the firmware and got no response. That was version 2.32 of the firmware. I resubmitted my bug report in late December and got a “let me check with the developers” response. After another month of back-and-forth, my bug report is inexplicably closed and the firmware is not fixed.

    Among the issues noted: - module spontaneously resets for no reason - loss of all settings after spontaneous reboot - UDP broadcast of GPIO states is non functional - Loss of TCP connection state causes remote connection errors until the session times out

    In short, these modules are beyond unreliable. I would not recommend these as a solution in any project and Microchip doesn’t seem to care.

  • Product WRL-12030 | about 6 months ago

    Anyone know if these will detect the presence/absence of a 915Mhz carrier? If so, then you have my full attention because that’s the transmission mode used by my electrical meter. It would be real nice to monitor power usage wirelessly, but I haven’t been able to find anything handling carrier/no carrier transmission other than possibly GNU Radio. Seems like everything in that band is FSK.

  • Product BOB-11736 | last year

    It would be nice if these boards actually came with a header for a real jumper rather than solder traces/bridges. I’m lazy and when I need to switch from 3.3v to 5v, I’m not really looking forward to the extra work of solder/desolder to get what I want. ;-) It only requires about 0.4 inches of board real estate (well, you could use smaller headers too, I suppose) and I’m even willing to take the time to install the header myself.

    My other FT232 boards are voltage selectable via some wire-wrap connections, but that can be error prone if you’re not double-checking your work.

No public wish lists :(