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Member Since: October 31, 2008

Country: Canada



Electrical Engineer


Hardware and Firmware development for digital wireless audio, RF development, PCB design, industrial design, 3D modeling …

Spoken Languages

English, nerd

Programming Languages

C, C++, XInC2 Assembly, VB, g-code, processing


U of A


RF, embedded micro development, CNC machining



  • We have also had good results using that library. It is a great starting point for getting this module working. We’ve made a board that is kind of like a cross between this board and a Pro Mini. So far it is working great using the library from open.com.au

  • I would be interested in seeing your code. Please send to cory(dot)duce(at)gmail(dot)com

  • Yes you could power this from the 5V rail on the PC. If you have 5V from the PC you can connect it to the GND and 5V points on the power header. The UNO can also be powered through the USB port, so you could mount it inside your computer and just run a USB cable out the back into an extra USB port. Better yet, if your PC motherboard has an extra internal USB port (it would be a male header on the motherboard) you could connect to that. That would let you power and program your UNO without needing to open your PC.

  • Those went fast! I guess I don’t get one just yet. Any idea of when you will have more back in stock?

  • The EM-406 and the EM408 are very similar, but have different power supply requirements, and slightly different connectors.
    Check out the data sheets.
    em406a user guide
    em408 user guide

  • This is a great little chip. With a page size of 512 bytes, it works well with the FAT file system. I’ve got this chip working in the place of a SD card with a LPC2148 and it works great.

  • Great tutorial!
    Another way to get a more accurate velocity measurement would be to put the GPS in to binary mode so you can get your X, Y, Z position in ECEF (earth centered earth fixed) format. Then d/dt (sqrt(X2 + Y2 + Z2)) gives you your actual speed in m/s. Even if you drive off a cliff!

  • Using a hot plate is easier than you think. Ideally you want to try to keep the hot plate at about 230 dec C (for lead solder), so let it warm up first before putting your board on. When you place your board on, I find it helps to hold it down so it makes good contact with the hot plate. I use two pairs of tweezers for this. Then, once all the solder has reflowed, lift the board off the hot plate and let it cool. Easy as that. Don’t worry about the temp profiles. Don’t leave it on the hot plate while the hot plate cools down.

  • Is there a recommended way to use this stuff?

No public wish lists :(