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March 17, 2014
Building Lego R2-D2 (full size of course) http://L3-G0.blogspot.com
about 6 months ago
Stoopid question, but is this repairable? Like can I get another VLSI for it? I released the magic blue smoke… :(
Is 12V a “hard” limit on the power supply input? I fried mine, but I’m not quite sure how, the only thing that comes to mind is that the 12V batter is, of course, a little more than 12V.
I have three of them and am pretty happy, but I’m having the same/similar problem, VLSI is getting really hot and not working. Anyone have a clue what happened to cause this? Static? Overvoltage? I’m using “12V” battery for the power, but that’s nominal, it is of course more like 13V. Is that unsafe?
about 7 months ago
I like the board so much for L3-G0 that we got a second one for MCK-Y. But for this application we’re getting noise from the steering servo. If I pull out the MP3 trigger (and use a different source), then the noise goes away. The trigger’s connected straight to the battery, and controlled by serial Arduino.
It’s clearly RF interference or maybe a ground loop or something, but it has me stumped. Any suggestions? (PS: My amp, Lepai 2020A+, has an appropriate ground loop isolation circuit on the input, it’s not on that end)
about a year ago
I just realized that this wouldn’t work for everyone if you had different power supplies. It works for me because L3-G0 (my Lego R2-D2) is battery powered with a common ground bus. Presumably, after cutting the trace, you could tie the ground pad pointed out in zlp’s diagram above to the jack ground. You’d still have to make sure your amplifier decoupled the inputs with the caps and stuff. (Not needing it I haven’t tried that, and you’d want to make sure your grounds were the same obviously).
I’m using a Lepai 2020A+ for the amp. From what I can see it already has a similar protection circuit, so I just cut the trace for the funny signal ground that’s not real ground right before it enters the jack. Seems to work great (at least for me). (I made sure there were 0 ohms between the jack ground and the through hole a bit back on the trace I was gonna cut to make sure it was the right one, though it was pretty obvious).
So, if your amp has the protection caps and stuff you might be able to do that too.
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