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Member #57306

Member Since: January 7, 2009

Country: United States

  • I like the 5v version of this enough that I wrote KiCad .lib and .mod files for those who want to put an Arduino Pro Mini on a PCB of their own design.

    Free.. Should work just as well with 3v3 version?

    http://kicadhowto.org/LibLib.htm

    The small size of the Arduino Pro Mini reduces the expense of the PBB you are making, as there is little board area under the Arduino.

  • Loving this little beauty.. AND the support level of the PJRC.com forum/ community. Ported my Arduserver to a Teensy 3.1 + Wiz820io, connected with Ethernet/ SD card shield… went well. Details, including sourcecode, at Arduserver.com

  • For a complete Arduino based burglar/ fire alarm system which could respond to this sensor, see…
    http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/aht8lokb16.htm
    Note that it has the necessary “Wait for sensors to stabilize” code, among other things

  • For a complete Arduino based burglar/ fire alarm system which could respond to this sensor, see…
    http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/aht8lokb16.htm
    Note that it has the necessary “Wait for sensors to stabilize” code, among other things.

  • Regarding the LED on 13: Duh!! I think I forgot that a “pinMode(13,OUTPUT) would be needed to make the LED go properly "on” or “off”. (Before I remembered that, I looked closely at the board… it does seem that JUST the LED, and its resistor, are on pin 13. (My Ethernet Pro is not tied up with “a job”, or I’d go off and test whether I forgot the pinMode statement.)

  • The Quickstart guide says… “Pay special attention to how you power the BMP085. Its maximum supply voltage is 3.6V. So don’t go feeding it 5V!”

  • Loving my Ethernet Pro!
    One (more) question… Am I missing something? Schematic makes me think that on digital line 13 there is an LED, tied through a resistor to ground… Green, marked “L”, just above the W5100?
    But I couldn’t get a “clean” 0v or 5v on D13’s connector, and the LED never glows brightly. Usually a faint glow. Sometimes dark. Usually about 1 volt.
    No, I haven’t done anything nasty, like configuring it as an output, setting it high, shorting it to ground. Yes, I’ve tried a “blinky” program… I can “work” the another pin okay, but when I change just the pin number assignment in the program, pin 13 doesn’t “behave”. (I didn’t have an LED on the other pin, just my voltmeter… but several LEDs are shining very brightly, elsewhere on the board.)
    Is line 13 connected to anything except the LED and resistor? I believe line 13 goes high briefly on board reset (built into OS), but is there anything else going on in the Ethernet Pro, on line 13?
    Speaking of lines… am I right in thinking only lines 9-12 are used for the interface to the ethernet part of the board. All other lines “free”, for user’s use?
    I’ve put a small server into my Ethernet Pro… not a WEB server… something simpler. Details at…
    http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/art5simpsrv.htm
    Enjoy!… I hope you will find the ideas there useful.

  • The “BUB” from ModernDevice… oops… or the Sparkfun equivalent!!!… cost next to nothing, compared to the doors they open. You can, once you have one, have multiple Arduinos without paying for multiple FTDI chips… which you will typically only use when programming the Arduino, and don’t need once the Arduino has been put “in service” in whatever you wanted it to do. In other words, it rapidly pays for itself. Sparkfun’s 5v i/f: DEV-09716 $15… but get the 3v3 version, if that’s what you need. (ModernDevice’s BUB has a jumper to switch between the two voltage choices.)

  • Providing an “out of the box” demo is difficult because you have to know what MAC addresses and IP addresses are not yet in use on the LAN the Ethernet Pro is going to be plugged into.
    Yes… it would be possible to send them out with known MAC/ IP addresses, and advice to the customer to unplug anything already using those before trying the Ethernet Pro out of box demo.
    But the customer who understands that, can probably load the test program of his/ her choice anyway.

  • It would be easy enough to create an “empty” shield, with a cut-out to allow for the Ethernet connector. Then the stack would be….
    Whatever shield you wanted
    The “empty” shield
    The Ethernet Pro

No public wish lists :(