Member #57306

Member Since: January 7, 2009

Country: United States

  • How is this better than an UNO, other than you are saved the “nuisance” (???) of using a cable between the Arduino and the USB socket?

    Though I will try to be positive: Two or more of these, we’ll call them ArduOTPs, pre-programmed, would be a great way for people to “pre-share” One-Time-Pad cypher keys. Alice is on the phone to Bob. (Each has one of my devices). I’m going to send you an encrypted text. I will use the key that the ArduOTP generates if you give it the seed 201702241214 (the date and time I wrote this comment. My Windows (ick) PC can generate that for me, thanks to Shortkeys (‘ray!) from q-d-t (without the hyphens… “q” 'cause all my keyboard macros start with a q-not-followed-by-a-u, so they don’t kick off except when wanted, d, t for Date/Time.

    Bob notes the seed. Waits for document to arrive. Fetches de-crypt key from his ArduOTP with the seed, and all is secure!

    If anyone works this up, either on a Redstick or other, I’d be happy to “advertise” for you at…

    But… again… sorry… what’s it good for, if you don’t mind using a cable?

  • Info on a $3.35 PCB which is like a shield, but with just a bunch of pads… for prototyping work at the bottom of… (The top is comments/ tutorial on the Thing.)

  • Info on simple $3.35 “proto shield” for devel work at bottom of… (Along with comments on this Things cousin, the Thing, Dev Board.)

  • Not sure what the “stacking” idea is… is it more than a convenient way to connect two panels in parallel? Series? (From what you say, I guess series? Guess right?)

    Is there any advantage to using the “two sockets/adjusting solder jumpers” beyond mere mechanical considerations?

  • Advice on buying solar panels for this would be welcome, as a note in the “Documentation” section.

    I know enough to be confused…

    Many “12v” panels on sale include a regulator, and are powered by panels which will generate up to 22v… more than recommended for the buddy, but using a Buddy “downstream” of another controller seems daft. And those controllers, it seems fail fairly often, anyway.

    The power a panel can generate is clearly a buying criterion. Easy to miss how little power some panels can produce.

    A 14v panel would seem “perfect”… Buddy spec’d for 6-20. I saw few if any of the “common” 10v panels.

    Hooking two 6v panels in series might work… What Could Possibly Go Wrong? Ah… some places on the internet say that if one is in shadow, it will effectively open the circuit, and you won’t get any volts rather than, say 8v. The same sources speak of “bypass diodes”… but the correct spec for such a diode… and which way to connect it!… wasn’t clear to me.

    So… get the idea?…

  • You need to INSTALL the OneWire library. This is a “once and for all” step. Then, with each project using Dallas 1-Wire chips, you need to INCLUDE the library in that project. (Note: “OneWire” and “Wire” are completely different things.)

    To INSTALL: Go down “Sketch/ Include Library/ Manage Libraries” Once that’s done, you can use “Sketch/ Include Library”, or just put #include <OneWire.h> at the top of the code by hand.

  • A way to put one on an Arduino (5v or 3V3) or on a Sparkfun ESP8266 Thing, with a “clever” (if somewhat “arcane”) way to deal with the need to delay between asking the sensor to take a reading, and asking it what the reading was, is explained at…

    The solution given does not tie up the processor with a “Delay(1000)”, during which other things can’t be done.

    The approach expects an IO pin to be dedicated for each sensor, but can be extended to allow more than one sensor.

  • Yes… it can. You can READ the sensor a few times in 5 seconds. It is “a small blob of plastic” (a bit like an “ordinary” transistor). There’s no complex heat transfer mechanism to make it “instantly” reflect a “new” temperature around it. If the tture rose by 5 deg F, I would quess that the sensor would show at least 4 of those degrees within 5 minutes, max. So many variables here! Is the room’s air “well stirred”. Is the sensor in a “dead zone”, near the wall? Did all of the air in the room “jump” by 5 degrees, all at once? Etc.

  • If I have this right, perhaps it could be more visible in your product listings? With an “also consider” box on each? As I say… IF I have it right: The Thing- DEV BOARD (WRL-13711, where this comment appears) connects to PC for programming via USB cable. The Thing- (“plain”, NOT “Dev Board”, WRL-13231) requires a 3.3V FTDI Basic is required to program it.

  • Besides the smoothing capacitor and serial line protecting resistor… see guide recommended in other post here…. how “big” a power supply do we need for this? (What current should it be rated for?)

No public wish lists :(