Member #57306

Member Since: January 7, 2009

Country: United States

  • Not sure what the “stacking” idea is… is it more than a convenient way to connect two panels in parallel? Series? (From what you say, I guess series? Guess right?)

    Is there any advantage to using the “two sockets/adjusting solder jumpers” beyond mere mechanical considerations?

  • Advice on buying solar panels for this would be welcome, as a note in the “Documentation” section.

    I know enough to be confused…

    Many “12v” panels on sale include a regulator, and are powered by panels which will generate up to 22v… more than recommended for the buddy, but using a Buddy “downstream” of another controller seems daft. And those controllers, it seems fail fairly often, anyway.

    The power a panel can generate is clearly a buying criterion. Easy to miss how little power some panels can produce.

    A 14v panel would seem “perfect”… Buddy spec’d for 6-20. I saw few if any of the “common” 10v panels.

    Hooking two 6v panels in series might work… What Could Possibly Go Wrong? Ah… some places on the internet say that if one is in shadow, it will effectively open the circuit, and you won’t get any volts rather than, say 8v. The same sources speak of “bypass diodes”… but the correct spec for such a diode… and which way to connect it!… wasn’t clear to me.

    So… get the idea?…

  • You need to INSTALL the OneWire library. This is a “once and for all” step. Then, with each project using Dallas 1-Wire chips, you need to INCLUDE the library in that project. (Note: “OneWire” and “Wire” are completely different things.)

    To INSTALL: Go down “Sketch/ Include Library/ Manage Libraries” Once that’s done, you can use “Sketch/ Include Library”, or just put #include <OneWire.h> at the top of the code by hand.

  • A way to put one on an Arduino (5v or 3V3) or on a Sparkfun ESP8266 Thing, with a “clever” (if somewhat “arcane”) way to deal with the need to delay between asking the sensor to take a reading, and asking it what the reading was, is explained at…

    http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/DS18B20-HowTo.htm

    The solution given does not tie up the processor with a “Delay(1000)”, during which other things can’t be done.

    The approach expects an IO pin to be dedicated for each sensor, but can be extended to allow more than one sensor.

  • Yes… it can. You can READ the sensor a few times in 5 seconds. It is “a small blob of plastic” (a bit like an “ordinary” transistor). There’s no complex heat transfer mechanism to make it “instantly” reflect a “new” temperature around it. If the tture rose by 5 deg F, I would quess that the sensor would show at least 4 of those degrees within 5 minutes, max. So many variables here! Is the room’s air “well stirred”. Is the sensor in a “dead zone”, near the wall? Did all of the air in the room “jump” by 5 degrees, all at once? Etc.

  • If I have this right, perhaps it could be more visible in your product listings? With an “also consider” box on each? As I say… IF I have it right: The Thing- DEV BOARD (WRL-13711, where this comment appears) connects to PC for programming via USB cable. The Thing- (“plain”, NOT “Dev Board”, WRL-13231) requires a 3.3V FTDI Basic is required to program it.

  • Besides the smoothing capacitor and serial line protecting resistor… see guide recommended in other post here…. how “big” a power supply do we need for this? (What current should it be rated for?)

  • I read elsewhere that the only connections needed to drive from Arduino are +5v, Gnd and an output with serial data from the Arduino. Is Unicorn happy with a 5v data signal? 3v3? And what power should the psu be capable of? Capacitor, etc? required on power line?

  • If you “drive” the chips from a PC (I’ve used Windows, for years. Others have done 1-Wire stuff from Linux equally long) all the “messy bits” are taken care of for you between an adapter (about $25) and the routines in the free SDK. I programmed for 1-Wire with Delphi for years, and have just (8/16) figured out the small tweak needed to use the SDK with the “free Delphi”, Lazarus. (Which I have been using happily for several years). http://sheepdogguides.com/lut/dstl2hello_ds18b20.htm

    And remember that the 1-Wire family includes many devices. You aren’t limited to temperature sensors. There are digital input and output modules. Analogue input modules, etc.

  • “Signal degradation”?? No… that’s not going to happen… that’s one of the advantages of using a DIGITAL sensor, like the DS18B20.

No public wish lists :(