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CF

Member Since: February 3, 2009

Country: United States

  • Hello! Send us an email to techsupport@sparkfun.com and we can help get you going with this. :-)

  • Good catch! You do indeed need 3.5mm screw terminals. We will get the note in the schematic corrected.

  • Sorry to hear you’re having trouble!

    This may be repairable. Shoot an email over to tech support along with some photos of your board and we will see what we can do for you.

  • Lithium-thionyl chloride batteries are what are considered a primary battery and unfortunately not rechargeable. Connecting one to this charger will damage the cell and could cause it to burst or explode. Either of those would likely cause a fire. This charger works great for lithium ion or lithium polymer batteries, but please don’t try to charge other chemistry batteries with it as bad things can happen.

  • Right in between those two pads is a wire that runs under the red soldermask on the board. You want to cut right between the two pads but no farther than the pads are tall. If you later need to reverse this, a solder blob connecting both pads will do that.

  • I understand why a resistor is needed at D2, but why isn’t needed at D1?

    D2 is a LED and needs it’s current limited. D1 is a regular diode. (Not an LED) If you put a resistor at D1, you’re severely limiting the amount of current you can get out of the voltage regulator. You just need to pick a diode for D1 that is built to pass at least the amount of current you expect to be using on the output.

  • Hi! Sure, you can mount these to a PCB. The holes are closer together than 1/10" though so you need to space the holes closer together if you want the LED mounted flush to the board. If you’re OK with the LED being ¼ to ½ of an inch above the surface of the board, regular 1/10" spacing would be OK.

  • This thermoelectric cooler will only draw as much current as it needs, up to a maximum of 7 amps. You could connect it to a 12 volt, 1000 amp power supply and it will never draw more than 7 amps.

  • The relay inside is N.O. and that can’t be changed. With no input to the device, the relay will be off. Supplying 3-12 volts to the input will close the relay and turn on your load.

  • There are no pads to solder a barrel jack directly to on this board, but you could connect one with wire to the RAW and GND pins. Check the hookup guide for more details.

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