Member Since: February 3, 2009

Country: United States

  • My mistake, I was looking at the other tags that peel off the white backing. For this tag, just cut between them leaving the foil antenna sections untouched and you should be OK.

  • The entire foil section of these peel away from the white backing. You don’t need to cut them, but can if you want to. Just don’t cut anything metal.

  • Yes, these can withstand being submerged. In fact, you can read them while submerged, but the read range will decrease. I just tested one inside a glass of water and it reads just fine! It might be best to cover them in tape just to be sure though. I don’t know how long they can withstand being under water.

  • analog input lines do not work properly when this shield is in place.

    This shield uses all six of the Arduino’s analog pins for shield functions already. If you don’t need wind direction and modify the code, you could free up A0 for your own use.

  • ——————– Tech Support Tips/Troubleshooting/Common Issues ——————–

    GPIO pins on the Pimoroni Explorer HAT Pro work differently than on an Arduino

    GPIO outputs on the Pimoroni Explorer HAT Pro go to ground when active so if you’re connecting a LED or other device to them, connect the positive leg of your device to +5 or +3.3 volts and the negative end to whichever output you choose. When that output is active, it gets connected to ground, completing a circuit.

  • Sounds like you have a baud rate mismatch. Double check to see you have the Serial Monitor set to 115200 baud and see if that clears things up for you.

  • You can’t use this display directly with I2C since it doesn’t have a controller built in. It’s just a bunch of LEDs arranged to make four digits. If you want I2C control, our 7-Segment Serial Display is what you want. It has a controller built in that lets you use I2C, SPI or TTL serial.

  • Thanks for catching that! We’ve updated the guide to better explain how to use ADD0. We’ve also fixed the link to the v13 schematic.

    As far as library compatibility on a ESP8266, that’s still a work in progress.

  • If your project requires a power source other than USB, the Thing Dev Board includes footprints for a 2-pin JST, 2-pin 3.5mm screw terminal, or a simple 0.1"-pitch 2-pin header. You can supply anywhere between 3.3V and 6V into these inputs to power the board.

  • Hit those with some UV light!

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