Member Since: February 3, 2009

Country: United States

  • Yeah, but can you find a floppy that still works!

  • Good catch! Fixed. :-)

  • Fluid never really enters the pump, it always stays in the tubing so the pump itself is probably fine with 210°. The maximum temperature for the Tygon pump tubing is about 165° Fahrenheit though (74°C) so that’s really your limiting factor.

  • Part of what you’re paying for is the software that makes the hardware run. A lot of work goes into making the software easy to use and feature rich.

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l91ISfcuzDw

  • Yes,the L233D had plenty of capacity, more than you need for this motor. Happy hacking!

  • Using it with a solar project. It works but the breakout is REALLY BAD DESIGN, imho. The problem is that the board leaks ~1mA through idiotic pull-ups (POL and others). It should not be surprising that this is used in context with very limited power supply. which makes the sloppy design even more embarrassing for Sparkfun. Please please update this!

    The data sheet indicates that pullups are required for proper operation of the LTC4150 and the 3.3K resistors chosen are larger than the minimum required. Unfortunately we cant build a board that works for every customers unique situation but we to try to provide you with information that allows you to tailor a board to your requirements.

    I would suggest swapping R5,R7 and R9 out for larger value resistors to get a lower current drain. 10K’s should work but you might try higher. Alternatively, you could remove those resistors altogether and use internal pullups on your μC if it has that feature.

    If you find a value that works well, let us know. We may incorporate that into a future revision.

  • 3.3 volts on the CTRL pin is definitely enough to cause the relay to trigger. 3.3 volts on the 5V may not be enough to reliably power the coil in the relay though since it’s expecting 5 volts. I tested an older version of this product on 3.3 volts and it worked fine, but since it’s below spec, you may run into trouble. Give it a shot with 3.3 volts and if you’re having trouble, bump the voltage on the 5V pin up to 5 volts and you should be good.

  • Hi Jordan. It’s not really intuitive on this board, but the terminals labeled R are for the center taps and W and B are for the outside legs. Try putting your center tap wires on R and see if the problems clear up. The reasoning behind this color scheme is it matches our load sensor. Your sensors might have different colored wires though.

  • The data sheet mentions that chlorinated solvents will attack the material the sensor is made of. The minuscule amount of chlorine you find in pool water should not be an issue though. I have not tested this sensor so I can’t comment on daylight skewing the readings. It would probably be a good idea to keep this out of sunlight to ensure proper operation.

Kimberly Wayne

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