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February 17, 2009
Product BOB-11044 |
Thanks for the tip! The low pass filter seems to be working (just need to tweak it).
Also, I wanted to drive an LED off of the speaker output and have it blink with the sound, but because the output is PWM, there isnt much blinking going on as it would had the output been analog. The LED is on and bright. Any ideas on how i might get it to blink? I read that I could use a low pass filter to convert PWM to voltage, but as you said its a high-power signal….
This worked perfectly to boost my pwm speaker output to an acceptable level. Only problem is i get a high pitched whine. It doesnt exist in the source in, so i guess i need a low pass filter on the speaker output.
I’m using a sparkfun NCP1402-3.3V Step-Up Breakout to power everything. Can anyone give me a clue as to what value capacitor and resistor i might need to build a simple low pass filter?
News - Fluke Responds to Tradema… |
about a month ago
You guys should do more than donate high end fluke multimeters. Hold a raffle. Then use that money to make even more of your entry level multimeters, then donate that instead.
I’m sure people don’t mind if you use some of it to offset your losses, perhaps indirectly through increased volume discount on making more multimeters.
Product WIG-11125 |
about 7 months ago
I’m trying to design a stripped down version of this board plus a lipower to replace the regular (since i’m powering with 3v coin and need to step up to 3.3v). So heres a 3 part question i hope someone can help answer for me:
1) If I’m driving speakers directly from SPK+ and -, and not using PWM (PAD_EQO, PAD_EQI), can I remove R2 and C3?
2) If my lipower already has 22uF capacitor on the 3.3v line, i should be ok to exclude C1 (100nF)?
3) If the reset line can be triggered via serial command, and I don’t have a use for a momentary reset button, can I exclude Q1 and C2 alltogether? I can leave the reset pin unconnected?
Product PRT-10255 |
about 7 months ago
I’m designing a stripped down modification of this with only 3.3v operation without UVLO (minimal parts).
For UVLO bypass, I’ve removed R3, R4 C2 and tied UVLO directly to VIN (correct?).
For 3.3v operation only, I’ve removed SJ1, R7.
And as a result of this, GND pin is now connected to R6 and then to FB pin (and then to R5 and VOUT). Can someone tell me if this is right?
No public wish lists :(