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February 21, 2009
about 7 years ago
I finally got mine to work. the problem was rather dumb, seems the wall wart i was using couldn’t provide an amp, which apparently is not enough current to power the scope. so i hooked it up to my 11.1 lipoly r/c helicopter battery, and managed to make it fully functional. cant really say how much current it wants, since all my multimeters suck. but make sure your power supply can provide a few amps. and what seems like a bricked scope might actually power up.
about 7 years ago
it took me 2 days of work to cut all the traces for my project. i was using the dremel engraver tool that pstemari suggested, but it quickly became dull and unusable. i ended up just using a cutoff disk. i still need to bore out the plated holes everywhere that top overlaps bottom. considering the time invested and the extra 15 bucks i spent on dremel bits, it might just be cheaper to have one cut with patchpcb.
i ordered one of these to reduce the size of an rc reciever that i designed using an arduino and a breadboard, and other components. currently trying to cram as much stuff onto it as possible, essential parts first and then as many extra headers as i can add for servos and other stuff..
of course the plated though holes may be an issue. im thinking i may be able to very carefully drill out the plating, thus eliminating the via. so long as i dont solder anything to either side this should work to isolate top from bottom in some spots. i wanted to get a schmartboard for this project, but couldn’t find a distributor that can ship to alaska on the cheap (thank you for using the us postal service, don’t ever change that and i’ll keep buying from you). i saw this one and thought it would make a cheap if not ideal alternative.
about 8 years ago
i also figured out that you need about 100ms for the modules to start up. so make sure your micro controllers wait that long before attempting to send or receive data.
i found that out while building an r/c receiver for a car. it went from barely working at all to fully functional just by inserting a 100 ms delay at the beginning of the sketch.
i’ve bought 2 pairs of these modules, a 315mh and a 434mhz. mainly been using them with an arduino with atmega 328. the transmitters are easy to get working, but the receivers seem to have issues.
i dont think the logic level on the receiver is 5v, i think its actually 3.5v. i used an op amp to boost the logic level. i think a mosfet would have worked better but i didnt have one on hand. if you use the receiver with a 3.3v micro controller you will probably be able to connect it directly.
use an antennae with grounded shielding near the electronics, it really helps. i used the antennae out of a fried r/c receiver and they worked fine.
about 8 years ago
i kinda think my problem is with the negative voltage supply. i can get the lcd to fire up and show graphics for a couple minutes after a long period of inactivity (like a couple days). and for awhile the negative voltages are acceptable, but after awhile they go positive. at this point i dont know what do do to fix it, aside from replacing some of the surface mount components (not something im set up for or have the skill to do). at least the lcd module is still good, i might be able to use it elsewhere.
first thing i noticed about this when i got it is the complete lack of useful instructions. i took some time trying to dig up all the information i could on the thing.
i installed the main board parts, did the 5v test, installed jumper, tested again. everything seemed ok. i attached the headers to the lcd module, inspected them carefully to make sure they were ok.
things were going smoothly until i discovered that the heat sink was blocking one of the 2 pin headers. i had decided to simply rotate the heat sink 180 degrees.
soldering lcd headers to the main board was rather daunting, as there were several smd components very close to some of the pads. but i managed to get around them. i power up. the screen lit but was blank.
after checking some of the terminals i found several incorrect voltages, but the troubleshooting guide didn’t say how to correct them. after some tinkering i got the thing to display the version number, but this only happened once or twice.
i check connections and touch up the pads but i finally came to the conclusion that i had either just bricked $60 bucks, or i had been sold a $60 brick, ether way, it sucks.
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