Member Since: June 20, 2009

Country: United States

  • Product DEV-09219 | about 3 years ago

    I’m trying to get the board to output a 300 Baud serial signal, but I keep getting garbage. 1200->115200 all seem to work, so I suspect this is just a timing issue.
    Do you know if it’s likely an issue with the board, or with the FTDI cable I’m using?

  • Product PRT-00133 | about 3 years ago

    If I’m using this to connect a 5v Arduino Pro with a device that expects the full +/- 12V, should I set Vcc to 12V, or to 5V?

  • Product DEV-09219 | about 3 years ago

    It turns out that the voltage regulator on the Arduino Pro board is really wimpy. I built my own 7805 based voltage regulator and it seems to be working fine now. At 150mA, it is unlikely to be able to power a standard Ethernet shield, since the WizNet 5100 chip is spec'ed to draw over that all by itself.

  • Product DEV-09219 | about 3 years ago

    It won’t charge the LiPo, or any other sort of battery you connect. That would have to be build separately, (and be very careful if trying to build your own LiPo charger, getting it wrong leads to explosions and fires.)

  • Product DEV-09219 | about 3 years ago

    Oops.. I meant 500mA, not 500mV.

  • Product DEV-09219 | about 3 years ago

    I’m having some problems with the 5V16Mhz model. The resettable fuse seems to be tripping at around 150-200ma.
    I’m using the Freetronics POE ethernet board fed with 12 V to try to power my project. The 12V from the board is fed back down the Vin pin. However, the 5V regulator seems to be cutting out regularly:
    When I measure the current draw at the Vin pin, it’s only sinking ~210mA. I know the 328 can only source 140, but the fuse is supposed to handle 500mV, right?

  • Product PGM-00006 | about 5 years ago

    The description doesn’t mention power requirements, but I’m guessing this should work:
    from Jameco (12W)
    Or this:
    from Digikey (6W) or

  • Product PRT-08815 | about 5 years ago

    Is the idea with protoboards like this to actually create solder bridges to adjacent pads, or to just put wires in the holes with pins from components?

No public wish lists :(