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Blacklab1

Member Since: June 25, 2009

Country: United States

Profile

Spoken Languages

Fluent in ADD, dyslexia, and dogs.

Programming Languages

GW Basic(for fun), pascal(long time ago), and C++

Expertise

chasing my own tail

Interests

Did I mention ADD? and anything to do with water, drip irrigation systems and chasing verbal rabits.

  • But is the stencil printer PB&J friendly?

  • I am sure glad Wedge did not add anything to the table.

  • Q: of the three types of filaments which has the best resistance to UV?

  • The only way to get rid of an earworm at Sparkfun.

  • You might want to share this idea with Consumer reports on packaging testing. I don’t know if they thought of dropping packaging from an AVC into a lake and measuring how long the bubble rap will keep it afloat.

  • My only concern is how long will the display last. I have equipment in my house that uses OLEDs and after a year of uses, you can barely read the display.

  • Just so you know the link to your “Understanding the BC127 Bluetooth Module” Module Datasheet.pdf is giving a 404 error. Correct link is >> http://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/DataSheet-BC127(10).pdf You left the last part off.

  • Good morning Mr Phelps,

    Your mission should you decide to accept it, is to add a tilt sensor/ door opening switch to your lunch box to set off a loud alert of “Let go of my Eggos !!!” if your lunch box is being tampered with. Remember should you decide to accept this Mr Phelps the speaker inside of your lunch boxes needs to be water proof in nature for this action.

    Also Mr. Phelps you would then have an excuse to add the Sparkfun Bluetooth Breakout board to tell your personal phone that your lunch is being hijacked or it’s getting too warm too.

    It could also be handy in your missions to have the Bluetooth on your phone set off a vibration motor in your lunch box to scare your cat, or your friends, or other unsavory characters playing with your lunch with a vibrating lunch pail. Though the Secretary of State will disavow any knowledge if your lunch catches on fire. She does suggest using the Bluetooth to control a locking device on said lunch pail, to keep your lunch safe.

    “As always, should you or any of your I.M. Force be caught or killed while making this lunch box, the Secretary will disavow any knowledge of your actions.”

    “This Message will self-destruct in five seconds. Good luck, Jim.”

  • I have a suggestion to kill two birds with one stone:

    First, to kill the wobbler - I would have put a ½ inch plywood Sheet -6 feet wide by 4 foot tall on the back side of the taller part of the desk (against the right wall), with the top of the 4 foot width attached with drywall screws to the upper shelf (2x4) and all cross 2X4s. That will stop the left and right wobble on that part. I would then do the same for the left part of the desk but using the left over from the 6'x4'. Also I would bolt the two desk together making an solid “L” using large washers and two bolts. - side note- I saw how you bolted your desk together- I would have done one other thing- I would have used larger washers and two of them in each hole. Reason being is that it would distribute the force more evenly around the hole, which will help in preventing cracking of the wood. As my civil engineer grandfather would say: This may not be an issue in the short term, but it may be an issue in the long term.

    Second Wobbler you didn’t even knew you had: By putting that plywood on the back of your desk you prevent things (screws, pencils, ect) from falling down behind your desk -making you have to go spelunking for them. Trust me, your back and head will thank you for doing it, while saving time.

    ALSO- WHY I suggest ½ inch plywood is because you can screw hooks into the plywood to hold for things like your Binocular Headband Magnifier, a cup holder for all your pins and pencils, a cup holder for your screw drivers and maybe your soldering iron too and other tools you want out of your way when your not using them.

    Don’t forget you can use the 2x4 under your disk to attach your power bars, or you can attach a power bar to that ½ inch plywood in the back of your desk.

    I do have a question for you: Why didn’t you cut your plywood sheet for the main desk to go between the uprights (2x4)? Yeah it’s works the way you have them, and you can run your wires through them, But your going to find things doing a dive through those holes. I am thinking about time that your going to be wasting diving for the wayward screw driver or screw.

    I know this one is over kill- but I hate spilling things on my desk like your coffee, tea, milk, water, ect. (and other things the kids will spill on it) and I hate burning holes into the desk top from a missed drop of molten solder or even the soldering iron. And before you hound me, I know it was expensive, and you will chip it at least once, but I still suggest going down to your local glass shop and buying a cut sheet of glass for the surface area of the desk top, and they can cut holes into it for your cables too. Plastic will melt so your not going to want Plexiglas on your desk top. I had my glass sanded so it would not cut me, and it’s worked great for 4 years now. Re: having them rounding the glass- I am not sure that is a good idea, more likely to chip.

    Also if your worried about running wires- If you look at the expensive disk they have holes in the desk with caps that have a big “U” in the cap that your wire can go through (Google: Grommet Cable Hole Cover Black for Computer Desk Table). All you have to do is go down to your local hardware store and ask if they have them (They have them on Amazon if they don’t) and buy the correct hole saw for your drill and cut the appropriate hole.

    Here’s my desk >> DESK picture 1

    and >> DESK picture 2

  • Q: RE: Hookup - Is there a way that you could use RCA connectors to hook this up? I am worried about the hum that ¼ inch jacks can add to your music.

No public wish lists :(