Member Since: June 25, 2009

Country: United States


Spoken Languages

Fluent in ADD, dyslexia, and dogs.

Programming Languages

GW Basic(for fun), pascal(long time ago), and C++


chasing my own tail


Did I mention ADD? and anything to do with water, drip irrigation systems and chasing verbal rabits.

  • Never mind we do have a connector that could be used. Sure it's twice the side of the U.FL connector, but can handle the stress that the U.FL connector cant.

  • RE: Smaller fans: More smaller fans does not mean better air flow. Means more noise, at a higher frequency. It's why people who build computer rigs use larger fans inside of their rigs, because they are looking for quite. Sure you think you are going to be using this while your not in your car, but I bet you will want to use it when you are camping or something like that.

    Here is the other thing: That one little solar panel, is going to be too small for what you want to do. You are going to need something that will generate 100W (~17.5 V @ 5.7 A) -150W+ (maybe your going to need two 150W panels or more), and both a buck-boost converter that can handle the 200W power, to get the power output at the voltage and total amperage your fans will need to operate (this is a MAJOR sticking factor if things will work or not). You might want to even come up with a short term storage device for when there is too much power like a super cap to make up when you don't have enough sun. Another thought you might want this supper cap to work at a higher voltage off the solar panels and run that through the buck-boost converter, then what the fans operate at, that way you're not trying to play with high currents on the fan side of things.

    Last: Get rid of things that can go really wrong.

    Get rid of the paper cardboard. Moisture will kill cardboard eventually, and you will have a mess on your hands. I thought SF had some type of Plexiglass laser cutter. Cad a design that can handle your fans, and cut some plexiglass to hold those fans. It will save you some times and a wet mush.

    Set up your connections so they will not short out or come in contact with the metal of your car. Trust me, you play with 200 Watts and things short, it's not going to be fun driving with the blue smoke smell in your car, and burn wires.

  • Damn!!! You guys made me miss our Radar Electronic in down town Seattle. Any EE student back in the 80's went there to buy parts for what ever project their Professor demanded the student to make for class. There are times I wish I knew what I was going to miss.

  • They do fine if you keep them away from drafts, static electricity - including that crazy Tesla coil dancing circle [think borg regeneration light - trust me I killed one with that], Christmas Lights , Cats, Dogs, Kids, They don't like electricity near their roots, or wet feet/roots - or mold in their plating medium, or hard sunlight (they will burn). What they do like: They like their roots moist then let dry. They like indirect sunlight, and like to be left alone (meaning they don't like being brushed up against- that includes the UPS man - keep them away from all foot traffic, or anything that might want to eat them. - I know picky.) RE: Current - all I know is everytime I have had any form of current around them, they have died. They are very sensitive.

  • Be warned Norfolk Pines do not like any form of current running near their roots, or 'leaves'. I learned this the hard way. Also they don't like static electricity any where near it either. Add to the list that Norfolk Pines hate: Cold (keep it away from drafts like near a door) and too much water.

  • I am not sure what type of fertilizer you can use with fish, but I would say by the yellowing of the leaves of what looks like bok choy, you need something. I know they do make plant food for fish tanks. I would say either your magnesium is low or your iron. I use to run a 240 gallon fish tank and a number of other tanks, plus, a short 30 gallon guppy tank with lots of plants.

  • Q: about the Arduino IDE -- has anyone figured out why the SamD boards are grayed out under Tools\boards in the 1.6.6 ? Adafruit had some answers about problem libraries, but not sure if it addresses this issue. Wish Nate had someone who was in charge of software issues.

  • I wish this could be I2C using PCA9555 for decoding the keys (also handles the Debouncing of said keys, and you don't have to worry about polling), and four PCA9635 to run the RGB leds (you may need to do some hardware tap dancing to drive the LEDs meaning extra resistor and a transistor, also you might need a different RGB led - but I can see why it could not be used). The cool thing is the whole thing becomes 5 wires to run the board- +5V, GND, SCL, SDA, and a INT. The INT is what lets you NOT have to Poll all the switches. When a key is pressed, the INT lets the micro-controller know something happen, then the Micro Controller checks the two ports to see which key has been pressed on the PCA9555. It cuts down on wasting time polling each key, and handles all the timing for the LEDs (which also means you can get the full spectrum of color from your LEDs). Everybody makes out that the coding is hard for the I2C but it really isn't.

  • Don't say that too out loud--- someone will do it.

  • RE: Dentures/Retainers --- they are already doing that. The COOL thing about this idea is when they now make the mold of your mouth, they can scan the mold (Which means you don't have to have a new mold of your mouth every time they want to do something- the old way destroyed the mold so you had to have a new one every time), then make the Dentures/Retainer/whatever. You lose your Dentures, retainer, whatever, they can make a new one without the hassle which means quick turn around.

No public wish lists :(