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Sniper001

Member Since: July 25, 2009

Country: Canada

Profile

Programming Languages

Actionscript 2 (flash), HTML, CSS, PHP, C#, C(arduino) Expression2 (garrysmod), LUA (garrysmod)

Websites

http://syetwork.co.cc

  • Wayyy late to this comment, but for future readers, sure is! Not sure if anywhere like sparkfun sells them, but I found some on digikey under the slide switches. It’d be a single or double pole, multiple throw switch.

    digikey search

  • Maybe a bit late to reply, but a simple solder and heatshrink job would be more than enough, just wouldn’t want to have those wires ‘flapping in the breeze’ and pulling on the tabs, so possibly fasten them to other wires or to the case when the project is done. These are designed for printed circuit boards which can have different size holes for different parts.

    Might be difficult to solder because as you mentioned there’s nothing to hold a wire while you solder it, so an effective strategy is pre-tinning the wire and tab, and then you can just heat the two together if you don’t linger the iron on too long for the solder to oxidize.

  • I bought one of these irons with replacement tips and element probably around the time you wrote this comment, just now getting around to replacing the element. Don’t exactly have a way to make rivots at home so it was an annoying thing to find out.

  • Not at all.

  • I’ve worked with these for a little bit now and it is a very nice looking display, and works well with arduino.

  • That is just the nature with this type of switch. They aren’t designed to be breadboard freindly, they are designed to fit on a PCB. you will see these switches in a lot of common household electronics. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and bend the leads so they are closer/farther away. this can help ‘hook’ the button in place so it wont fall out.

  • there is a plastic film that comes covering the face of the display. It protects the matte-finished display face underneath. It doesn’t look too bad if you prefer the glossy appearance leaving it on, but after you are done soldering your dedicated project it is nice to take off the film, because it looks less tacky.
    The displays are nice and bright, you could easily see it in most lighting conditions (except direct sunlight would make it difficult)
    easy to plug in to your micro controller (with resistors of course) and get working.
    I didn’t bother trying to find a datasheet with the pinouts, i used my multimeter’s diode test function (you could use the proper resistor and a power supply) and just probed the pins to see what i needed. Someone here mentioned the top and bottom middle pins are positive, and they were correct, so I went from there.
    for a buck a piece you cant go wrong.

  • Now the datasheet says that it’s forward voltage is normally 12 volts. Does that mean if I have a 12 volt supply I need no extra resistors to power it?

  • I didn’t get this kit, but I have one very very similar to this one. I love the way you have a size to fit almost any distance on a bradboard perfectly.

  • Imagine taking this to an airport :D
    ‘Sir, can you open this box please?'
    'no'
    'Why not?'
    'It won’t let me'
    lol