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Chiel

Member Since: July 29, 2009

Country: Netherlands

Profile

Bio

i love everything that has to do with electricity

Spoken Languages

Dutch,english and a little bit german

Programming Languages

Arduino(c++),Basic,HTML,javascript and SPIN

Universities

HWC,Nova

Interests

Robotics,electronics,3D-art

Websites

http://www.nighter-3d.net

  • Well its a Nintendo DS touch screen. Their displays are 3" diagonal, 2.4"*1.8" dimensions. 4:3 aspect ratio. So a 4:3 3" screen should be what you are looking for.

    Hope this helps!

  • Well this is not a Display board. its only the touch-screen interface. you would need to put a seperate lcd underneath the screen for a full on touch display.

    As for the screen here working with arduino it’s pretty easy. The Bildr tutorial linked in the description shows you exactly how to use it.

  • Very unlikely. RasPi consumes up to 700ma@5v (Model B). You will probably want the 2000mah version if you want the raspberry to work for atleast 3 hours at maximum consumption. You may also want to look up on how others power the Raspberry pi of batteries. Some parts need 5v and others 3.3v so you may need to do some boosting and regulating to get everything working properly.

  • If the discharge limitation of 2C is incorrect. Then what is the actual limitation? its kinda important considering there is no built-in protection. Also what are the real dimensions?

  • The MSGEQ7 has a high input impedance. It doesn’t take the entire signal. it merely samples it. You can pass the signal to a different part with the chip merely being connected by its 1000pf capacitors to the signal.

    Take a look at the “Spectrum shield” here on SF. its a arduino shield that does pretty much what you request. Its schematic should show how easy it is to use this chip!

  • Sofar I can tell the differences between this and the gen.1 (for those wondering) are: Replacement of RS232 by 3.3v TTL-uart header, 12-bit PWM, 12v PoE, UART1 redirecting to arduino header, Power regulation for freedom in wall-wart choice and that the usb-host port is an actual usb port. rather then a micro connector that requires a otg cable.

    Atleast that is what I gathered.

  • idk if that is a good idea. Switching the operating voltage while live may be a bit risky. I wouldn’t trust a potential kill-switch that may damage the device and possible whatever its connected to. Rather own 2 separate ones with each configured properly instead.

  • Hmmm. This looks like a perfect block to attach my transformers to in my Power-supply projects. definitely getting one with my next order…Never know when you need to safely connect some high power items!

  • I expected them to not be super bright, yet when i turned them on I started to see a couple of dots in my vision for a little while.

    They may not be “super bright”, but they get very close to it.

  • Just one would do for controlling a 240vac device. after all as you say if either is disconnected its an open circuit and thus not working.

    out of the datasheet i read its Off below 1v input and On when above 2.4v (so NO). Remember to always read the datasheet when uncertain. in its parameters and connection diagrams your questions may already been answered.