Member Since: July 29, 2009

Country: Netherlands



i love everything that has to do with electricity

Spoken Languages

Dutch,english and a little bit german

Programming Languages

Arduino(c++),Basic,HTML,javascript and SPIN






  • Product WRL-12820 | about 2 weeks ago

    I do believe that aslong as you dont go and tamper with the module itself the certifications remain intact. afterall the module itself is certified. would be silly to sell a certified module that would lose said certification the moment you install it in something as one is expected.

    So yeah it would keep its certifications if installed on a circuit you designed yourself.

  • Product WRL-12072 | about 3 weeks ago

    So now we have the Xbee wifi, E-Imp, WiFly and the CC3000 to pick from. You guys really know how to spoil us with choices. altough this one seems more suitable in projects where one prefers their controller of choice to do its job rather then having to configure the module itself. To me this one seems good for those looking to migrate from wired solutions such as the Wiznet network modules.

    I especially like the SPI interface. Fast and efficient which is a plus for network modules of any kind.

  • Product PRT-12702 | about a month ago

    A mini Breadboard sized protoboard with traced rows. I can already see some small projects being soldered on a few of these. like a self designed remote, or a small sensor board. Possibilities are endless. i know the Wired Protoboard can do similiar, but for some projects one may prefer not to have to spend time carefully cutting traces.

  • Tutorial - Adventures in Low Power Land | about 2 months ago

    Something possibly worth mentioning to the viewers is the “Safe voltage” per clock speed one can readup in the datasheet. Basicly the lower the clock speed the lower the minimal voltage has to be for the mcu to operate without risking corruption. For the ATMega328 @ 8mhz you would be fine aslong as supply voltage was 2.4v>.

    With Lithium batteries (Bless their awesome discharge characteristics providing a stable 3v most of their life) this is less important, But if you are planning to work with say alkaline you may want to take care, afterall you wont have BOD to cover you.

    Awesome tutorial btw. I never noticed there was a easy to use Power management library in AVR in the first place!! Now i can ensure that my AVR projects draw as little power as possible at all time. To test my knowledge im now working on a small smd led pocket watch similiar to the bigtime that displays time in BCD code (if going Geek you may aswell go all the way!). In order to get rid of the Delay library and its Timer0 reliance (and processing overhead) i ripped out the Delay loop for microseconds out of the Delay_Basic.h file. Turns out its a tiny 2 line assemby loop that keeps going whatever is given as input * 4 cycles. so if given the time you need it to delay in us * 2 (increasing it to take 8 cycles which is 1 millionth of the internal clock) you get a very small handy delay cycle without having to rely on messy NOP loops nor on the delay library and its Timer0 use. it may be only as accurate as the internal clock, but for slow humans its good enough.

    3 cheers for inspiring projects giving way to learning. ive learned so much about AVRs and how to reduce power use since i read this and got inspired. Thanks Nate and yes the cheap SF-DMM are quite awesome!

  • Product COM-12710 | about 2 months ago

    Tiny size, Self magnifying, very low power draw, Awesome “retro” appearance. DIP12 format. Everything screams “AWESOME” about this product.

    With specs like these i wonder why these bubble displays stopped being made (not sure about this version, if still in production that is EPIC, cant find much info about these around). Especially with miniaturization and “Low-Power” being rather important now they would make pretty handy displays in tight spaces.

    I like many am confused about the offering of these. are they surplus (NOS)? Normally i would judge by the Datasheet, but surprisingly the datasheet looks rather young.

    Oh last bit i did notice that is of possible interest. These guys were designed with the possibility of installing them tilted. the leads can bend so that the display tilts up to 20 degrees.

  • Product KIT-11734 | about 2 months ago

    I may not have this kit, but i can say that it has inspired me to try and make own mobile electronic timepiece. Al tough instead of a simple 7 segment display i went the geekier route and designed a pocket watch variation that displayed in BCD like the binary clocks one can find on gadget stores(if you gonna go techy you might as well go all the way!). Got a design ready and sent to a batch PCB fabrication (bring on the purple!). Next stop a case and perfecting the code.

    Its exciting when you see a existing something like this and think of a way to make one of your very own yet unique in its own way. Thank you very much for the inspiration!

  • Product PRT-10161 | about 2 months ago

    1) You use the jumper by removing the solder between the existing pads(look up Desoldering), then apply new solder between the middle and the other pad. 2) It has a on board led that goes one when charging and turns off when its done. as readable in the datasheet.

  • Product PRT-10161 | about 2 months ago

    Yes. this charger is built exactly to charge those kind of batteries. just know that the bigger the pack. the longer it takes to charge.

  • Product PRT-10161 | about 2 months ago

    (better late then never, might help others with same question later) Depends on the battery ofcourse. Some discharge on their own faster then others.

    Lithium Ion based batteries (like the Li-Poly) tend to discharge slowly for rechargeable. The ones on sale here on Sparkfun discharge with up to <8% per month at most.

  • Product PRT-10161 | about 2 months ago

    Doubtfull. the MCP73831T is designed to charge a single cell properly. the moment the battery its designed to charge is fully charged the IC shuts off automaticly. Also if 2 rechargeable batteries with a voltage difference are put next to eachother i think you get that one starts charging the other at a unsafe speed. Lithium-Ion Polymer batteries are best to be handled with utmost care and to avoid iffy situations.

Name Pieces Total
Freeday List
16 74.3
Items that i might want later on
2 209.9
List of stuff i already have
21 337.95