Member Since: July 29, 2009

Country: Netherlands



i love everything that has to do with electricity

Spoken Languages

Dutch,english and a little bit german

Programming Languages

Arduino(c++),Basic,HTML,javascript and SPIN






  • Yes you can! The W25Q RAM series was what the Teensy Audio Board's mem footprint was added for and what they suggest to use with the board.

    Though you may want to check if 32 megabit is enough space for your project as they use the bigger 128 megabit version in their examples. very roughly speaking: At 48khz-16bit this chip could hold 40 seconds of single-channel audio. (20 if dual)

  • "Code Shadowing" is the practice of copying code from Non-volatile memory (ROM) to external Volatile Memory (RAM) and then execute said code directly from it (via XIP or Execute-In-Place). The why one would do this boils down to RAM reading data faster, having far more space and being able to even alter the data in memory.

  • Dissapointing design. AC fuses should generally not be used in DC purposes as AC fuses are prone to be slow and leave small gaps that may result in Arcing. compared to DC fuses that are designed to be very fast and leave large gaps (often having a spring to pull the contact away on break). A DC fuse i would trust to break a higher DC voltage (~50v). An AC fuse i would not.

    If one wants to protect DC reliably one should be looking at DC-rated Fuses such as Multimeter fuses. They tend to be bulkier and more expensive than generic AC fuses, but will reliably break DC up.

    I know it ain't cheap and it can be very tempting to just assume an AC fuse will get the job done which it probably will, but it can't truly guarantee safety and is improper engineering.

  • I would like to know what the USB connector is like a brand name and/or Model nr.

    It only has 2 pins for power and they are both easy to solder which would make them perfect for simply usb powered stuff. Normal Micro-usb connectors tend to be a absolute pain to hand solder, but finding micro-cables is the easiest thing these days so a easy connector would be perfect.

  • Nice to see some APA102 products as alternatives to WS2813.

    I like my WS2813 leds, but they can be annoying to control by anything but microcontrollers and are kind of slow (the more leds the lower the amount of updates per seconds you can push through). APA102 are a nice alternative to them.

    What really helps is that they are supported by the fastled library. So any project that uses Fastled for controlling can be converted to use APAs with just a few lines of code.

  • Well first this to note is that you don't need to purchase a antenna for the Omega to function. The blue component near the U.FL connector is namely a Chip Antenna that should be enough in an environment with plenty of WiFi Coverage.

    But if you wish to use a external Antenna anyway the way to choose is to check that the antenna is suitable for your purpose. The Omega2 uses 2.4ghz WiFi so for that you will want a 2.4ghz Antenna. Besides the Sticky pad Antenna Sparkfun carries two 2.4Ghz Ducky antennas that use RP-SMA. You can interface those with the U.FL connector through the RP-SMA to U.FL Interface Cable that sparkfun offers.

  • It can do basic detection of faces and relay information about it, but i don't believe it can actually identify a person. at least i can't find anything on that.

  • I think he is confused by the mention of both the 16u2 and 32u2 . Only one of them is used on any board, but the description sounds like there is a 16u2 and a 32u2 besides the 328p on a board.

  • I understand the confusion. It is pretty weirdly worded

    The serial bridge is EITHER a 16u2 or a 32u2. Apparantly some of the boards have a 16u2 instead of the more spacious 32u2, perhaps they are older or there was trouble sourcing enough 32u2. That is why they mention both of them (I think).

    So when you buy this you get one with either a 328P+16u2 or 328P+32u2... or there may be just a typo.

  • If you look carefull at the rows of headers to the right of the logo and leds on the breadboard (opposite of the reset button and between the actual breadboard and power rails) you can recognize the typical arduino layout. Even the little offset between the 2 headers (d1-d7 and d8-scl) is there.

    It is a bit hard to see at a glance, but yeah it is indeed compattible. It really is mostly a arduino with a breadboard around it and having also the serial bridge's IO pins broken out.