Alex the Giant

Member Since: March 1, 2016

Country: United States



Electrical Engineer

Programming Languages

  • Python

  • C/C++

  • HTML

  • Javascript

  • CSS


University At Buffalo 2008-2013


  • Fixing things until they’re broken

  • High voltage

  • Tinkering



In this Enginursday, we'll explore some of the problems that can creep up when connecting I2C devices

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Setting up a sensor to text you if your basement is in danger of flooding

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Create your very own levitating light with just a handful of parts.

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A new twist to the classic party game, Beer Pong!

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ESP32 Thing Power Control Shield Hookup Guide

June 9, 2017

This tutorial shows you how to get started with the ESP32 Thing Power Control Shield.

Roshamglo Hookup Guide

March 13, 2017

This tutorial provides everything you need to know to get started with the Roshamglo badge.

TMP102 Digital Temperature Sensor Hookup Guide

February 2, 2017

How to connect and use the SparkFun Digital Temperature Sensor Breakout - TMP102 with an Arduino.

Wireless Joystick Hookup Guide

January 5, 2017

A hookup guide for the SparkFun Wireless Joystick Kit.

Mini GPS Shield Hookup Guide

December 15, 2016

A hookup guide for the SparkFun Mini GPS Shield.

Reducing Arduino Power Consumption

November 10, 2016

A tutorial about different ways to reduce the current draw for your next Arduino project the easy way.

9DoF Sensor Stick Hookup Guide

August 25, 2016

How to connect and use the SparkFun 9 Degrees of Freedom Sensor Stick with an Arduino

Load Cell Amplifier HX711 Breakout Hookup Guide

July 22, 2016

A hookup guide for the HX711 load cell amplifier breakout board
  • Under heavy loads, the heatsinks may not be enough to keep the drivers cool, so you may need to source a 5V fan to pull the heat away faster.

  • I bought a pack of sticker paper on Amazon. To make the icons, I just changed the icon size to 36 and did a screen capture and printed out the entire menu. The key caps need an acetone bath to smooth out the layers, because a couple have already started to peel up.

    I’m planning on printing out more icons with regular paper and using contact cement for better adhesion. I’d like to also protect the images from fading as well by using a clear epoxy over the top or maybe just a couple coats of clear spray paint.

  • It’s to avoid the ringing in the clock and data lines as preventing the logic low voltage from becoming too high. With two boards, the impedance becomes 2.35k and with three boards it becomes ~1.57k and so on.

    The TMP102 for example, considers any voltage between -0.5V and 0.3*VCC. So with a supply voltage of 3.3V, a logic low is any voltage between -0.5V to 0.99V. In the example where a 100 ohm pull-up resistor is used, the logic low was 1.2V, so the TMP102 would see that as a logic high still.

  • That’s a good point and you nailed the reason why I didn’t test (and therefore mention) active terminators, because we don’t have an active terminator that I could test with.

  • The temperature range is -40 to 125 degrees C. How you attach is up to you really. For the most accuracy, I’d recommend having the black IC in the middle make contact with the heated bed. If your contact area is exposed metal, you’ll want to make sure to use kapton tape to electrically insulate the board, or use non electrically conductive thermal pads.

    For more accuracy, you’d want to measure the heat of the pad across the temperature range you’d expect and write a transfer function for the temperature the TMP102 is returning.

  • Capacitive touch works by having a large impedance resistor charge a capacitor and measure the voltage drop. The problem with a normal digital pin is that the resistance is too low to have the resistance of the water affect the voltage on the pin.

    The touchRead function does return an analog value, and while you could build a capacitive touch sensor as used in this Arduino library, I’m able to use the hardware capacitive touch for a more robust design.

  • Library has been updated and negative temperatures should now return the correct value.

  • Absolutely, but where’s the fun in that? :)

  • Most sump pits have a cap of some sort. With mine, I have a plastic dome cap, and the cap is around an inch above the concrete floor. The pump should only let the pump fill around half way or so if it’s working properly, and with longer bolts of threaded rod, I can set the probes in the pit a few inches, that way I’m alerted before the water even leaves sump.

  • Sorry about that, all fixed!

No public wish lists :(