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Member Since: August 14, 2009

Country: United States

  • Nice work roysjosh! I was able to use it to update a series 2 device to 2x8C without problems.

  • I have one of these running at 300 RPM using an EasyDriver at 20V - it’s certainly not a speed demon, but it’s quite usable. The two tricks to getting it to go a little faster were disabling microstepping and using a higher voltage. Microstepping is useful if you need a very small, precise movement, but it only slows you down if you’re trying to do fast, large movements. I had no trouble running at 180 RPM at 12V once microstepping was disabled. The second trick is to use higher voltages; the maximum voltage given for a stepper is usually the safe voltage to use without a current limiter, but you can generally use higher voltages if you have a driver that will limit the maximum current (like the A3967 on the EasyDriver).

  • I just killed one by accidentally plugging it into a 9V supply. The cooked component seems to be the MOSFET. Looking at the data sheet for the NDS8434, the maximum rating for gate to source voltage is 8V. The MCP73843 is probably pulling the gate to ground, and thus exceeding this spec for anything more than an 8V supply. Arguably this is partially Microchip’s fault, as they use this MOSFET in their example circuit in the MCP73843 datasheet.
    Sparkfun, you probably will want to relabel this product as “LiPoly Fast Charger - 5-8V Input”.

  • Don’t be intimidated by the mechanical aspects of this part. It’s a great little device, and if you’re comfortable with the soldering cutting the notch and slots is fairly straightforward.
    The notch took a few seconds to cut using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. For the slots I drilled the hole at one edge of the slot, and then used a broken blade from a jeweler’s saw to extend it. I was making my own board (and thus had a lot of steps like this), but it your fab house won’t do this there’s no reason you couldn’t add the notch and slots to a board this way after you got the board from them. The larger hole you suggest should also work.
    For the design, I just drew the notch on the silkscreen layer of the footprint and then watched to make sure that there weren’t any tracks or zone fills beneath it when I laid out the board. For the slots, I was surprised to find that KiCad has an option for oval drill holes. If your fab house supports these than they’re worth looking for in Eagle; otherwise you could just use a large hole or mark the drill hole at one edge the slot.

  • The one I have from Sparkfun is mounting mode M0, as reported by the PLSR Compass Measurement Report 1 sent by the device.

  • Luckily the data sheet mentions another document called “TN51 SCP1000 Pressure Sensor Assembly Instructions”, which contains the reflow information you are looking for. Here’s a link to the document in question:
    TN51 SCP1000 Pressure Sensor Assembly Instructions
    Sparkfun, is it worth adding this link to the Documents section?

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