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Member Since: August 14, 2009

Country: United States

  • Cool that Brian is actively commenting here. Thanks!

    This looks like a great board. Wish there was a breakout or adapter that allowed it to plug and play with the Polulu sockets commonly found on RAMPS and other reprap boards. More options the better!


  • You could gauge both air pressure and water pressure (to answer post above) by using a pressurized bladder inside a rigid vessel and measure the pressure of the bladder against the walls of the vessel. Not very precise though.

  • It depends on whether you want it to default to the locked position or the open position. With this as the deadbolt, it'd fail (when the power is broken) to the unlocked position.
    Personally, I'd prefer it to fail in the unlocked position if it was a egress door as if there was a fire or natural disaster, I'd want my doors to actually let me leave. Your housing code may also require this.
    CUE: 2001 The Space Odyssey : Open the pod doors, HAL..... I can't let you do that Dave.......

  • I hope you know that the technical name for an LED that has had too much forward or reverse current through it is a DED: Dark Emitting Diode.
    Please modify your tutorial accordingly. :-)

  • MicroB is sturdier than MiniB and is rated for many, many more insertion/removal cycles. It'll also be the standard for charging cell-phones in the future, so we'll see much more of it.
    The Kindle uses the Micro-B, so perhaps you've seen it there...

  • There's a really great video on the manufacturer's website:
    It shows how to use the MagnetoPot with linear servos or measuring fluid levels.
    I didn't quite get how to configure this (since the datasheet is sparse), but the video pretty much explains it all.

  • The manual says it using an ATMega168 while the description above says ATMega328. My guess is the manual is out of date and needs to be updated.
    Just a quibble and if it's fixed, you can delete this comment.

  • It would be really really really really great if we could just buy the project board (PCB board) alone. I like using the 8M project board since it's so cheap ($3) and I'd like to move up to the 14M but the project board is only available in this $15 kit... :(

  • I graduated to the PICAXE from the Basic STAMP and couldn't be happier!! Instead of $30~40 a chip, I'm paying an amazing $3 for something that has more features (full time PWM; 10 bit ADC). If I need all the inpus, I just get the 14 or 18 pin versions.
    Fantastic! I can put PICAXEs everywhere!

  • It'd be nice if SparkFun moved to the micro-usb standard. More robust and will be the new standard of the future, with MiniUSB being deprecated.

No public wish lists :(