rjimenez

Member Since: August 15, 2009

Country: United States

  • Product DEV-12069 | about 5 months ago

    I did something similar to this a few years ago. Feel free to read my blog posts on it (http://www.modelesis.com/embeddedbliss/2010/09/toilet-tank-alarm/). Do let us know it goes! :)

  • Product WRL-11601 | about a year ago

    Thank you so much. Since the Microchip site for this module linked to the HID profile user guide, I was hoping this to be the case :) Time to go tweak the design of my iPad keyfob remote control!

  • Product WRL-11601 | about a year ago

    Check out the “Documentation and Software” section of this page: http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en560176

  • Product WRL-11601 | about a year ago

    Can someone here confirm whether this has the HID profile baked in? It says “with HID profile support”, but does that mean it can be switched between say SPP and HID like product WRL-10823? Thanks!

  • Product ROB-10825 | about 2 years ago

    I was able to get similar behavior with the QRD1114 optical detectors (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/246). Printed out a couple of discs about the same diameter as the flower-looking ones that came with the kit - my discs, however, had alternating black and white sectors. I then hot-glued the QRD1114s next to the motors (there’s just enough room for that) and it works very well. I blatantly stole the idea from the Rover 5 innards as seen on other Web sites :)

    Do note, however, that I don’t have a proper quadrature encoder, in the sense that I can’t tell wheel rotation direction from the encoder alone. That said, given that I’m, you know, driving the wheels myself through code, I figured I don’t really need direction, just encoder ticks to know if I arrived where I was heading, distance-wise :)

  • Product COM-09061 | about 3 years ago

    Yes - no problem at all. Turns out the chip was accidentally fused and programmed for Arduino. I placed it into my Arduino’s socket and was able to re-fuse it to require no crystals (using FTDI bit-banging) and then program it through ArduinoISP using my ‘duino’s original Atmega328. You can also fix this using a breadboard and a crystal or resonator.

  • Product PRT-10319 | about 3 years ago

    I am not an expert by any means, but I built a circuit with the battery this one replaces and a MAX1555 charger running an Atmega328. The intention was to ensure the Atmega kept running during occasional power outages, in order to correctly preserve time (RTC design with async Timer2 and 32.768kHz crystal)
    The circuit only ran for six months (I replaced it with a new design that does away with the rechargeable batt), and it ran extremely well. Along this time it had at least one three-hour power outage every day. But it being so little time, I can’t tell whether the charger chip wrecked the battery’s lifecycle or something.
    Prior to assembling my circuit, I did some tests on a breadboard (holding the battery between right-angle headers and using a SOT-23 to DIP adapter for the charger), and also got good results re charging time, voltages, etc. (none of which, I admit, I checked over the final PCB)
    Important: I only used the USB input of the MAX1555, never the DC one.

  • Tutorial - Mixed Signal Costume | about 3 years ago

    Nate, congrats on another very cool project. I can’t agree more when you say it’s no the technology but how you use it.
    I have a question on the technology though :) The MOSFET. You say that bringing the gate to about anything above 3 V will turn it fully on. Is that also the case if the drain is set to a different voltage, say 12 V, or is it because it is close/same as Vcc?
    The product page for the MOSFET seems to imply it would still work (“drive a car headlight lamp from your Arduino!” :)) but I know very little about teorethical electronics, and Wikipedia’s entry on MOSFETs remains a bit cryptic to me (perhaps a few more reads at earlier times of the day may help :)) So any kind of confirmation/clarification would be greatly appreciated.

  • Product COM-09061 | about 4 years ago

    Could anyone please confirm that these chips use factory default fuse settings? I’m having an unusually hard time programming them with my usual setup (ArduinoISP), with which I’ve easily programmed the similar 168 from other vendors in the past.

  • Product PRT-08885 | about 4 years ago

    It would seem that, unlike PRT-08814, one cannot solder a small DIP-8 component to this board (e.g. an Attiny85), can one?

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