Member Since: August 30, 2009

Country: United States

  • I understand and agree what you are saying about the price disparity to a degree; with that being said much of the time the quality of the 78 cent sensor can certainly be suspect. I ordered 2 last month, both came in crushed after waiting 3 weeks so I can't comment on the quality of those. One of my friends gave me one purchased from amazon for a couple dollars last weekend to play with, turns out it was DOA (the receiver side operated intermittently.) I ordered 5 more early this week from amazon with the hopes that at least a couple will turn out problem free. If I would have been able to purchase one from Sparkfun originally, there would have been a working distance sensor on my quad 3 weeks ago; also I would have enjoyed the added benefit of less lost hair. To summarize, I have found Sparkfuns quality to far exceed the quality of their cheap Chinese competitors on more than one occasion; if you have a pressing project in mind you just want to work, it's certainly (to me at least) worth the few extra bucks. If you just want to play with a sensor and don't mind the wait or potential problems, get the 88 cent one; in fact there is valuable learning experience available troubleshooting suspect parts. Please don't take this the wrong way though, there are plenty of perfectly functional, high value parts available on the extreme cheap that certainly represent an excellent value! Who knows, if the original box didn't come in crushed, I may have been able to crush them on my quad-copter and would be saying "Why would I pay 5x as much for a sensor I'm just going to destroy in a rough landing anyway."

  • And no one else has a T-14 hyperdrive, I promise you that.

  • On many of these, the standard thermocouple insulation wire sheathing (usually a plastic or fiberglass braid) will be run all the way down to the end of the stainless tube to the measuring junction of the thermocouple; and that junction can be insulated with a variety of materials as well from the stainless tube (and sometimes electrically connected to the end of the tube.) For use with higher temperatures, usually ceramic insulators will be added or replace the standard insulated sheathing to prevent the wire shorting at higher temps as the standard sheathing (or end insulation if applicable) inside the tube will melt.

  • Filthy maggot puke ISPs are suing to overturn new net neutrality rules in this great country.......Figures.

  • Karate Chop!

  • It took some doing, but we finally got Bob back to normal.

  • Just a note, I believe the Beaglebone Black has only a micro HDMI connector; thus you would still need an adapter to work with the standard HDMI cable.

  • SparkFun's own Mad Hatters.

  • Lumen output of your light source is going to be the factor that matters, visibility in daylight would most likely require lumens in several orders of magnitude greater than the methods displayed in this video.

  • It sounds like the water piping analogy for electricity is very popular. Going along with that analogy, my favorite for a capacitor has been the spring loaded piston or spring loaded accumulator. Most people can see as the cylinder fills, spring gets tighter and it’s resistance to filling increases; or in other words as the cylinder fills up, the water also flows in more slowly due to the spring getting stiffer. You can also explain you need a spring rated for the pressure or voltage as to not bottom out the cylinder or capacitor and damage it. Hence why your capacitor needs to be rated for the voltage. You can also explain ESR with the above describing a plate with a hole in it located at the inlet for a resistor. I think someone had already mentioned it, but I’ve had good success explaining resistors as a plate with a hole in it, and varying the resistance with the size of the hole drilled in the plate. Obviously the bigger the hole, the less resistance.

No public wish lists :(