Member Since: September 6, 2009

Country: United States

  • For many applications, this one is unnecessaraly big. How about storing something like MCP1702-33?

  • 1) Pin to pin compatible means that if you had a PCB design for that LOCOSYS LS200x6 module, you could drop in this LS20126 module instead.
    This is ready to use. You may be interested in the BOB-10141 breakout board, though.
    2) This one also has a magnetic sensor, ie magnetic compass.

  • It seems little silly that there isn't any (low-voltage) power source for the control logic, built in this thing. So if someone builds a device with this, he/she needs to plug in two separate power cords.
    But, it doesn't concern me anyway, unless you're planning a Euro version.

  • This instruction seems incorrect to me: "Note: If using this board to load code with the Arduino IDE, be sure to select the 'Arduino Pro (5V, 16MHz) w/ATmega328' as the device."
    Since ATmega328 has 32 K of flash, and ATmega8U2 only has 8 K. The parts differ in RAM also.

  • So, to get my Panda erased I should return the board to TinyClr so they erase the chip for me. Sounds easy allright...
    But if I understood correctly, there will be a software solution that enables erasing the chip at home. Don't know when, but I'm not in hurry with this. I was prepared to use Windows with this board for some time.

  • djmitche: As a warning, this connector is *very* fragile. I managed to abrade the coating off the larger copper traces and solder to them, and had a working touch for a short while. But flexing that connector seems to weaken the copper trace, and now one of the traces is open, making the device pretty useless.<br />
    <br />
    Do yourself a favor and get one of these, too: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9170
    <br /><br />
    <br />
    I did. Didn't help much, the connector broke anyway. I IS fragile, I can confirm...

  • I agree that the firmware is poor. I didn't try to use SPI so I don't say anything about that, with serial this works ok. <br />
    <br />
    But the code looks ugly. And because there is no resistors, the only thing limiting the current LEDs get is 168's ability to source current, causing digit brightness to vary. Eg segments on digit "1" (2 LEDs lit) are much brighter than on digit "8" (7 LEDs).<br />
    <br />
    I wrote a firmware of my own that fixes this by altering duty cycle, to compensate this.

  • Short answer: yes.

  • chumber: Which FTDI cable should be ordered from Sparkfun that works with this board?
    I guess this one will do: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9717
    But check the pinout!

  • Jimb0: That's correct, Greeg. Both displays are the exact same size. The footprints are similar (same pin-spacing), however this display has all 16-pins connected (and a function for each pin), rather than the 14 on the older display.
    If so, what are the functions for pins 14 to 16? Datasheet only covers pins 1 to 13.

No public wish lists :(