urjaman

Member Since: September 26, 2009

Country: Finland

  • Product LCD-11987 | about 6 months ago

    I’d like to see a datasheet for the RS0010. Does it/this have any brightness levels other than maximum and off?… The driver code is a bit badly commented (mostly the initialization reads like an objdump… “// Missing step from doc.” well what does it do? what doc?) and doesnt seem to have any brightness control other than the display on/off.

  • News - Full AVC Details and Cour… | about a year ago

    FYI “Peloton” means “fearless” in finnish. I was very confused for a long time until I consulted wikipedia. (Really means the main pack of cyclists.)

  • Product LCD-10097 | about a year ago

    Youv could get rid (optionally atleast) of the potentiometer and offer digital contrast by plugging OC1B PWM output to RC filter (220ohm + 4.7u? or something) and that to contrast pin. Works in my ATmega328 + LCD-based device but I have OC0B and OC0A doing BL LED PWM and contrast and Port B as 8-bit LCD interface and no xtal (which I see you want for serial)…

  • Product CAB-11604 | about a year ago

    How about an OTG host cable for Mini usb OTG devices? Eg Female A to Mini-A (or was it Mini-B ? I cant figure these out …) well one that fits into Mini-AB and has ID grounded anyways…

  • Product PRT-11496 | about 2 years ago

    I have to say that If I wanted one of these, I’d get it cheaper (no shipping costs) and with the connector bits (that I could use 2 of) from dx (http://dx.com/p/wn-808-3500mah-portable-solar-powered-panel-charger-for-iphone-4-4s-ipad-1-2-black-148437) - it’s not identical in branding but otherwise seems the same thing.

  • News - New Product Post: Electri… | about 2 years ago

    Regarding the IMP: The moment I heard “everything is cloud based” I was like “BEEP BEEP NOPE NOPE NOPE”. Can you actually really program them? … reads Maybe… there is an eCos source code download available, but I see no real documentation otherwise than that (and my current device doesnt have .tar.xz extractor so I cant look inside)…

  • News - Free Day Text-Browser Con… | about 2 years ago

    Hey, it is actually possible to use the sparkfun website with links :). Props to IT for that. Submitted from links on a 25Mhz i486 laptop :P

  • News - Eagle 6 Has Landed | about 2 years ago

    Yeah, but that has the downside that you then need to make >$49 out of selling those designs, or the license is bought for nothing - all the while somebody else could be using your OSHW design to make some random $. I think eagle would be worth the $49 if it had anything of real value more for me than the free version. I can live without selling my stuff, it is just a minor inconvenience - something I’d like to do if I could for … max $10. (How about $99, Light featureset + 4 layers and 2 schema sheets, OSHW selling permitted?… One can dream…)

  • News - Eagle 6 Has Landed | about 2 years ago

    Hi, as per Heffo below;

    I think that there is a huge glaring gap in your EAGLE pricing options, if you want to cater for the sparkfun customer base. Eg. somebody who is just dabbling with electronics (no big budget), but might want to try selling possibly even one-offs of their OSHW designs, and maybe they might want to use the 4 layer possibility at batchpcb, or something. So Light (paid for) gives one nothing extra except the ability to sell ones stuff - but this is really not enough to pay 62€ for - one might never get that much profit off selling stuff. Also the Light Free license doesnt (AFAIK, I’m not a lawyer) prevent someone else from making money from published OSHW gerbers, since they never accepted the Light Free license. They might not even know you used the Light Free edition to create your .brd files, and if you release the gerbers for their convenience, they will be able to sell your stuff without ever using EAGLE. So, I’m suggesting a version of eagle in the same price range as Hobbyist (but if possible $$, not $$$), which allows selling if you release your design as OSHW, and maybe a few limits of the Light edition raised (so you dont need to boy it just for the selling rights). I’d suggest maybe 4 signal layers and 2 (or more) schematic sheets. Maybe a bit larger routing area to compensate for more sheets too, but that would be just icing on the cake.

    And yeah, the current offer for something that would fullfill the needs I listed above, is a whopping $820 (Eagle Standard with all parts). Nobody on a hobbyist budget is going to boy that, and the features are also a bit excessive for the hobbyist wanting to sell a few pcbs.

  • Product KIT-09612 | about 2 years ago

    Hi, has anyone tested whether bridging the STA540 into a single channel configuration would work? Eg. do not populate C12^, and bridge left and right channel from JP13, and connect speaker to both left and right ch (connect OUT1 and OUT3 to one side and OUT2 and OUT4 to other). Or will it just blow itself up from some internal channel mismatch? (Pete-O? :P)

    ^ the right ch pot and lots of other right ch components are thus unnecessary, but I list minimum changes, not minimum components…

    EDIT: Given some more time to figure out some more numbers, I believe the 2x24W at 14.4V (to 4 ohm) is continous sine wave power, which is consistent with the voltage limit, thus you cant get more power from that voltage by bridging the outputs (you could drive a load with less ohms, but that is unnecessary for me). Note that the peak power to a speaker is already 48W in that mode. I have a 120W car laptop PSU (20V 6A) that I think I could purpose for driving this thing, giving atleast that 2x38W continous, or 76W peak to a speaker. (Actually 2x76W > 120W, so better place some big capacitors on that thing…)

    So yeah, I think I’m gonna boy one of these for driving my car rear speakers someday, with boosted voltage it should be totally enough power for them, and for a great Watt/EUR-ratio :P

No public wish lists :(