Member Since: October 2, 2009

Country: United States

  • These transmitters are awesome! I am using one to control off the shelf wireless outlet switches that are available for dirt cheap during the holiday season. I used the corresponding 315MHz receiver and my Rigol DS1052E scope to decode the protocol from the remotes and reimplemented it on an ATTiny2313 microcontroller. I'm using a capacitor charge pump driven by a microcontroller PWM pin to boost the 5V USB voltage powering my board to 8-9V DC for the transmitter. It can take up to 12V and the higher voltage means longer range. This setup easily covers my whole house even though the transmitter is located in the front corner room. I can control 12 outlets (lamps, fans, Christmas lights, whatever) from anywhere using my phone. Thanks 315MHz transmitter, you're awesome! The total board (USB serial, ATTiny2313, transmitter, homemade PCB, etc) cost around $10 total and the outlets are $15 for 3.

  • For anyone using a Raspberry Pi (or any other Linux device) there is support built into the kernel for these sensors using lm-sensors (so you don't have to write your own drivers). Make sure the temperature sensors (LM75 I think) are compiled into your kernel as well as i2c-dev, then, as root:

    echo tmp102 0x48 > /sys/class/i2c-adapter/i2c-0/new_device

    Replace 0x48 with your address and tmp102 with whatever chip you have. I don't have the 102, but have a bunch of TMP100's I sampled a while back that work perfectly with this setup (using 'tmp100' instead of 'tmp102').

  • Just got one of these to debug a wireless project I'm working on. I bought a set of wireless outlet switches on Amazon (has a remote and 5 boxes that plug into the wall, each with a relay to switch an outlet on or off). I took the remote apart and it had a 433MHz radio. I scoped the protocol and it uses an equal-spaced long/short encoding. I figured this 434MHz would be close enough and it is. The thing outputs random noise until I press the remote button, then I see the signal perfectly. I also bought the 434MHz transmitter which I will use to mimic the remote to control the outlets. A lot of commercial stuff uses the 433/434MHz band so that is another possible source of noise, but most are not steady connections, only momentary.

  • I might buy it if just for parts for the one I already have. I have a SparkFun iron with a bad heating element that I'm looking for a replacement for, the original Hakko element doesn't seem to be compatible.

  • After some more work I got text working, wrote a simple menu interface, and have an option to send pixel data over serial. I then wrote a simple VB app to use 130x130 bitmap images to draw pictures to the LCD. I'll post my complete code when I'm done with it, I'm using ATMega168 though I also plan to port it to 8051.

  • I have an old Nokia 2600 phone that I don't use anymore so I tore it apart and found a screen that looks very similar to this one. I bought the connector here and soldered some wires to it to see if I could get my LCD working.
    I'm using the example provided on the Arduino LCD Shield demo with a bare ATMega168 and was able to get the display working after changing some things. I finally figured out it is probably based on the Phillips controller. However, blue and red are backwards from the example code (LCDClear(BLUE) makes it red, LCDClear(RED) makes it blue, green works normally) and it wouldn't print the SparkFun logo until I changed ENDPAGE and ENDCOL to x and y respectively in LCDSetPixel.
    It is a nice little LCD though and easy to use after modifications, if you have an old phone lying around you might already have one. If I need another I will definitely buy one here.

  • Thanks for finding this part! I took apart my old phone (Nokia 2600) and found an LCD that looks like the one sold here so I decided to buy this connector to test it. I soldered magnet wire to the back of the leads using the Sparkfun 936B soldering station and then super glued it to a piece of stripboard. So far I have managed to light the LED backlight of the display but need to read up on connecting it to microcontrollers.

  • My replacement unit came and it works great! It heats up quickly and has a very nice tip. The handle stayed cool while running at 325 C for an hour or so. I also got the brass sponge to clean the tip and it works well. I was able to solder individual wires to the Nokia LCD SMD connector with this iron.

  • I did and they are going to send a replacement as soon as the next shipment comes in.

  • It's cheap and it works. It cleans up the tip well, even on cheap irons like the RadioShack ones. I haven't had any problems with it falling apart, but if it does I may try a soda can cut in half or other container.

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