Member Since: October 2, 2009

Country: United States


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C[++], PHP, java

  • I’m trying to use my Sparkfun branded (molded SF logo in plug) FTDI cables and they’re not getting detected by Windows drivers. Upon inspection, my FTDI cables have had their USB PIDs reset to 0000. This is a problem that others online have had, apparently because of knock off FTDI chips being used. There are instructions on resetting the PID which I’m trying now. Sparkfun, any comment on this?

  • What makes you think you can’t reprogram the bootloader section and the FUSE bits so that you can use a DFU bootloader?

    I don’t understand why this didn’t come with the DFU bootloader instead of the CDC bootloader. No one wants to remember COM (aka /dev/ttyUSB*} port numbers…

  • No! Don’t solder the fine wires to the inner core! Never!
    When you cut them shorter, it will work %80 of the time first try. The only reason it wouldn’t work is if the fine wires got shorted to the main wire. Steps should be taken to ensure this shorting does not happen and is the only “complicated” part.
    Granted, at the end it gets power, the fine wires are annoying to solder.

  • I like this board a lot but there are some serious flaws.
    I understand that the socket was recessed from the edge so an “inserted” card is flush. I don’t see how this is actually useful to start with. I’d rather not be forced to use my nail. A concession however would be to move the pins back so you can just cut/sand down the PCB to be flush without taking out the CD pin.
    The uSD holder has a huge issue as well. The two tabs that deflect when a card is inserted and disconnect the case from the CD line are not very reliable (poor design choice, but cheaper to make) and can even easily be permanently bent so a card is always detected. They are also exposed making that more prone to happening.
    Other uSD slots are better because the CD switch is pushed by the edge/side of the card only in the last mm of insertion, well after all contacts have been made.

  • I know this is old but my solution is to pull the VCC out of the socket (you can do it without damaging anything if you’re careful) and plug it in to a pin added to the external supply input. That way the 5V from the USB will go through the nice onboard 3v3 regulator.

  • Gotta love necro posting…
    Anyways, it looks like the resonator in use (490-1198-1-ND?) actually has a ceramic element instead of a more precise quartz one. If the digikey part I found is the correct one, frequency accuracy is only .5% (5ppt), MUCH lower than quartz crystal (10-50ppm). The accuracy you’re seeing (~1ppt) is actually 5 times better than what the datasheet suggests you’d get!
    Of course the reason for this less accurate resonator is cost… and integrating the capacitors.

  • Of course it could!
    The amount of work however, to get what you described working, would probably be rather overkill. It sounds like you have a project in mind but don’t understand what this does. There is very likely something available here that will suit your needs!
    The community might be able to help you get started if we understood a little more about what you’re trying to do.

  • First, I assume you meant:
    […] aligned with the X axis gyro […]
    This is also my first point about this: You shouldn’t have to qualify the direction you’re talking about with which set of axes you’re using.
    […] to eliminate the drift from the X axis gyro […] data from the accelerometer labeled X. […]
    You need readings from both the X and Z (your sine and cosine) to get an absolute angle measurement. Otherwise you don’t know which side you’re on. (Remember that trigonometry?)
    So, lining them up would be easier since you remember to correct a gyro axis with the other two axes.
    And I was trying to make this comment constructive, not demeaning.
    And I ran out of words for full arguments and special cases…

No public wish lists :(