cinderblock

Member Since: October 2, 2009

Country: United States

Profile

Spoken Languages

English, french

Programming Languages

C[++], PHP, java

  • Product COM-10200 | about 3 years ago

    No! Don’t solder the fine wires to the inner core! Never!
    When you cut them shorter, it will work %80 of the time first try. The only reason it wouldn’t work is if the fine wires got shorted to the main wire. Steps should be taken to ensure this shorting does not happen and is the only “complicated” part.
    Granted, at the end it gets power, the fine wires are annoying to solder.

  • Product BOB-00544 | about 3 years ago

    I like this board a lot but there are some serious flaws.
    I understand that the socket was recessed from the edge so an “inserted” card is flush. I don’t see how this is actually useful to start with. I’d rather not be forced to use my nail. A concession however would be to move the pins back so you can just cut/sand down the PCB to be flush without taking out the CD pin.
    The uSD holder has a huge issue as well. The two tabs that deflect when a card is inserted and disconnect the case from the CD line are not very reliable (poor design choice, but cheaper to make) and can even easily be permanently bent so a card is always detected. They are also exposed making that more prone to happening.
    Other uSD slots are better because the CD switch is pushed by the edge/side of the card only in the last mm of insertion, well after all contacts have been made.

  • Product DEV-09717 | about 3 years ago

    I know this is old but my solution is to pull the VCC out of the socket (you can do it without damaging anything if you’re careful) and plug it in to a pin added to the external supply input. That way the 5V from the USB will go through the nice onboard 3v3 regulator.

  • Product DEV-09218 | about 3 years ago

    Gotta love necro posting…
    Anyways, it looks like the resonator in use (490-1198-1-ND?) actually has a ceramic element instead of a more precise quartz one. If the digikey part I found is the correct one, frequency accuracy is only .5% (5ppt), MUCH lower than quartz crystal (10-50ppm). The accuracy you’re seeing (~1ppt) is actually 5 times better than what the datasheet suggests you’d get!
    Of course the reason for this less accurate resonator is cost… and integrating the capacitors.

  • Product BOB-00198 | about 3 years ago

    Of course it could!
    The amount of work however, to get what you described working, would probably be rather overkill. It sounds like you have a project in mind but don’t understand what this does. There is very likely something available here that will suit your needs!
    The community might be able to help you get started if we understood a little more about what you’re trying to do.

  • Product SEN-09431 | about 4 years ago

    First, I assume you meant:
    […] aligned with the X axis gyro […]
    This is also my first point about this: You shouldn’t have to qualify the direction you’re talking about with which set of axes you’re using.
    […] to eliminate the drift from the X axis gyro […] data from the accelerometer labeled X. […]
    You need readings from both the X and Z (your sine and cosine) to get an absolute angle measurement. Otherwise you don’t know which side you’re on. (Remember that trigonometry?)
    So, lining them up would be easier since you remember to correct a gyro axis with the other two axes.
    And I was trying to make this comment constructive, not demeaning.
    And I ran out of words for full arguments and special cases…

No public wish lists :(