zwheel

Member Since: October 23, 2009

Country: United States

  • Product COM-11737 | about 10 months ago

    Why???

    I’d go for the si4743 instead. It does everything the above chip does PLUS weather band as opposed to the SI4736 which drops the short and long wave support. Of course, if you don’t care about those you don’t have to use that functionality. I’d like the chip where we can have EVERYTHING!!

  • News - The Slap Method for Solde… | about 2 years ago

    Yeah. The mass of the solder helps it hold the necessary momentum to fly off the board. After using a solder sucker you just have the little bit that got sucked into the hole through capillary action and you will never get it out. (w/o adding more solder anyway)

  • News - The Slap Method for Solde… | about 2 years ago

    That’s great for salvage. Maybe not so great for rework when you already have a lot of other components in place.

  • News - The Slap Method for Solde… | about 2 years ago

    Not necessarily. Sometimes you can save the header if the pin count is short enough (probably no more than 3).

    One trick I like is to add more solder until I bridge all the pins in a nice big blob. That allows me to heat them all up at the same time. It doesn’t work as well with the ‘slap the board’ method though.

    Sometimes what I do is sit on the floor, hold a pair of pliers between my knees, gripping the header or other multi-pin component. Then, holding my board in one hand and iron in the other I heat the solder blob while gently pulling up on the board. (obviously I already made the blob before getting on the floor)

    This is really only worthwhile when you are short on headers and want to finish the project tonight (don’t want to wait for more to ship). If you have a nice supply already just cut them apart, heat and slap the board just as described above.

  • Product KIT-10094 | about 2 years ago

    A couple of other changes… I cut a hole in the side of the tin rather than big notch for the USB socket to keep it stronger. (Meaning the lip of the tin is still intact and there is metal surounding all sides of the connector).

    Also, since I had extra space by using a mint tin I didn’t have to make the socket stick out. I made it flush with the tin so that it can’t be bumped against things and broken.

    I also added a small bead of solder to each side of the connector between the connector and the mint tin to help hold it in place and to ground the mint tin body. Be careful if you do this, you don’t want to plug up the inside of the USB socket with solder.

    The directions suggest that some devices prefer the data pins to be shorted. In case I ever have two devices that each prefer one of those methods I added a little switch which shorts them. So far none of my devices (Samsung Stratosphere and iPad 2) seem to care if the switch is on or off.

  • Product KIT-10094 | about 2 years ago

    I’ll second that! If I could just drive up to Microcenter and skip the shipping that would be awesome.

  • Product KIT-10094 | about 2 years ago

    For the tin being discontinued issue I just used a Penguin Mint tin. They are the same size/shape as an altoids mint (not gum) tin. It’s bigger but this meant I could ditch the two-AA battery holder and replace it with a three-AA holder to make it last longer.

    In retrospect I’m not sure if I should have done that or just stuck with the 2-battery holder and used the extra space to keep a small folded up USB cable. There is still a LITTLE space to each side of the PC board. Maybe I can use that space for a very small one. I’ll store it with each connector on one side of the PCB and the cord stretching across. This means I will have to cut a USB cord down to about an inch or so long though.

  • News - Little Box Stores | about 2 years ago

    Imagine every hackerspace having a repurposed cigarette vending machine (if you can remember those) filled with components…

  • News - Little Box Stores | about 2 years ago

    You have Electronic Connection in Westland, Abel Electronics in Saint Clair Shores and Van’s Electronics in Ida.

  • News - Little Box Stores | about 2 years ago

    I’d love to see you at Van’s Electronics in Ida, MI. (734)269-6196 There focus is a bit more on radio stuff and older components but they are pretty much all there is besides RadioShack in the area. Ida is a small town but they are the nearest non-chain component store coming from Toledo, OH or Monroe, MI as well as several other small towns.

    You might be a good fit at Electronic Connection in Westland, MI. They are probably the only non-chain electronics store for the AnnArbor, MI area as well as the Western Metro Detroit area. (734) 595-6655

    When I worked in the area I used to go to Abel Electronics in Saint Clair Shores, MI. I think you would be a good fit for them.(586)777-8232.

    I don’t think any of these guys have a decent online presence but that’s kind of normal for the non-chain stores isn’t it?

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Leif's Wishlist
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