Member #394252

Member Since: January 1, 2013

Country: United States

  • I was really excited to get my new third hand in the mail as I’ve used my traditional one quite a bit and find it flimsy and hard to get wires aligned in order to solder them together. Well, this one is even harder to get my wires aligned. I’m not sure if folks are putting some kind of lube on it to make it move more easily, but I’m having a tough time using this. Any tips?

  • OK. So I’m good to use the go-between and just modify my pin assignments then?

  • I went to the Arduino website and looked at the Mega 2560 info. Their page says the SPI pins are:

    SPI: 50 (MISO), 51 (MOSI), 52 (SCK), 53 (SS).

    So does this mean I don’t need to mess with a Software SPI library? I’m confused.

  • So, if I use this between an Arduino Motor Shield and an Adafruit GPS Logger shield which both use pins 11, 12, and 13. What do I have to do besides make the appropriate solder connections and reassign pins in the code when I declare my constants?

    Is there something “special” about these particular pins. I was told I would have to use a sofware SPI library because they are “Hardware SPI Pins.”

    //Declare constants
    const int
    L_PWM = 3,   //Ch A
    //R_PWM = 11,  //Ch B
    R_PWM = 5,  //Ch B change to this from pin 11 to avoid conflict with logger shield
    L_BRAKE = 9,  //Ch A
    R_BRAKE = 8,  //Ch B
    L_SENSING = A0,  //Ch A
    R_SENSING = A1,  //Ch B
    //L_DIRECTION = 12,  //Ch A
    L_DIRECTION = 4,  //Ch A change to this from pin 12 to avoid conflict with logger shield
    //R_DIRECTION = 13;  //Ch B
    R_DIRECTION = 7;  //Ch B change to this from pin 13 to avoid conflict with logger shield
    
  • Hm. OK, sounds like I should just use the regulator. I was just trying to minimize required wiring. Pololu has one that steps down 12-14v down to 3.3v.

  • It’s an alkaline A23 12 volt

  • TheRealTonyStark. I’m working on IM repulsors with light and sound. Got my lights working with a flex sensor to come on when hand plate is tilted back. Trying to get sound working on it and bought this module and the amp shown in the pic you posted. I connected them to my 3.3v pro mini as shown in your image and am using a 2G san disk card holding a single 22050 hz 16 bit mono wave file converted to ad4 format and named 0000.ad4 . All I get is a buzzing noise when it tries to play the converted file. Any thoughts?

  • So…I was told if I had an LED set up requiring 12V, and an XBee that I was controlling off this version of the pro-mini, I would need a step down regulator in order to only use one power source for all three things. Is this not correct since it has an on-board voltage regulator? Couldn’t I hook the 12V battery to the pro-mini’s raw pin, hook the LEDs directly to the battery, and the XBee to the VCC? I’m still learning all this electronics stuff so I want to be sure I don’t fry my Arduino.

  • I had just updated the firmware on my XBee with the trace antenna while it was on the XBee Adapter Kit and using the Adafruit USB FTDI TTL-232 cable. The green LED was blinking before the update. After the update, the green light went out and now that particular XBee that was on it won’t work. I swapped out the XBees and the second one works with both adapters. What the heck happened?

  • Just an FYI for those with the original EasyVR. I have an EasyVR I bought about a year ago. The original, NOT the 2.0 version. I had gotten the EasyVR Commander working fine with my old laptop back when I first bought it, but when I downloaded the software from the VEEAR website to my new computer a few days ago, the EasyVR Commander wouldn’t work. I finally got it working with my Ardunio Mega 2560 on my new laptop after copying the OLD software (version 3.4.10) I originally downloaded when I bought the EasyVR. For some reason the current software on the VEEAR website (version 3.7.25.0) wont' work…maybe it’s a plot to force us to upgrade… Lucky for me I still had the old laptop and hadn’t wiped that hard drive clean.

No public wish lists :(