Description: It’s blue! It’s thin! It’s the Arduino Pro Mini! SparkFun’s minimal design approach to Arduino. This is a 3.3V Arduino running the 8MHz bootloader. Arduino Pro Mini does not come with connectors populated so that you can solder in any connector or wire with any orientation you need. We recommend first time Arduino users start with the Uno R3. It’s a great board that will get you up and running quickly. The Arduino Pro series is meant for users that understand the limitations of system voltage (3.3V), lack of connectors, and USB off board.
We really wanted to minimize the cost of an Arduino. In order to accomplish this we used all SMD components, made it two layer, etc. This board connects directly to the FTDI Basic Breakout board and supports auto-reset. The Arduino Pro Mini also works with the FTDI cable but the FTDI cable does not bring out the DTR pin so the auto-reset feature will not work. There is a voltage regulator on board so it can accept voltage up to 12VDC. If you’re supplying unregulated power to the board, be sure to connect to the “RAW” pin on not VCC.
The latest and greatest version of this board breaks out the ADC6 and ADC7 pins as well as adds footprints for optional I2C pull-up resistors! We also took the opportunity to slap it with the OSHW logo.
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Note: A portion of this sale is given back to Arduino LLC to help fund continued development of new tools and new IDE features.
Dimensions: 0.7x1.3" (18x33mm)
Based on 25 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
I’m using this as an ADC to convert an analog pot into a digital value which is then input into a Raspberry Pi. I had a 9V battery in my project case, so I tried powering this board up using the 9V line on the RAW pin. The product description for this board says the max voltage on RAW is 12V (and the schematic says 16V), but as soon as I connected 9V to RAW, there was a loud “POP” and the bitter taste of disappointment (and melted plastic) in the air. Happily, it was only the regulator IC which blew, and I’m able to power and use the rest of the board using the 3.3V pin on the Raspberry Pi driving the Vcc line on the FTDI header.
Another great SparkFun product, but I still wonder what happened with the voltage regulator. Anyone had a similar experience?
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Really great product. Reasonable cost, documentation sufficient, and great compatibility with Arduino family. Low power consumption, too less than 10ma - that along with the small size and easy hook-up (flexible use of header pins if desired) makes this my go-to Arduino platform.
2 of 2 found this helpful:
With the possible exception of it’s 5V sibling, this is my favorite Arduino board. It’s small, it’s inexpensive, and it does everything one would expect of an Arduino.
1 of 1 found this helpful:
I really like this and the 5V version. For many projects I prefer them to the UNO. My only beef and the reason for the loss of a star is the fact that pins A4 and A5 are not on the outside of the board and worse, they are offset. So for I2C you have to run wire or build your own board. Not the worst thing ever, but for a tiny bit bigger of a footprint, I personally would have preferred those pins on the outside.
1 of 1 found this helpful:
So removing the solder blob allows you to run the board off a 3.7V lipo. from full charge(4.2V) to discharge (~3.2V) the microcontroller runs its 8MHz quite happily with no complaints. Does really well in deep sleep modes as well.
1 of 2 found this helpful:
Some of our local amateur radio folks (aka Hams) are supporting a climate change class taught at Williams College. Last year the class launched a balloon that reached 30K feet and we received telemetry data from the balloon. This year we plan to design a more capable payload for the balloon. The light weight, low cost, low power requirements, and availability of software make this product a great choice for generating telemetry data.
Works exactly like it should so 5 stars.
This is perfect if you want to embed an Arduino into a small project. The 3.3v version is awesome as you can directly connect to things like the small WiFi and nRF24 radio boards that are native 3.3v chips - no need for the Sparkfun 5-3.3v converter board.
Make sure you pick up a FTDI 3.3v logic board or cable. The 5v one you probably have lying around won’t do you any good with this board.
I’ve been using the Pro Mini boards since they were first introduced and they’re just the ticket if you need a super small Arduino board for your project. I like to keep a few of both 3.3V and 5V versions on my bench as they’re my go to board for quickly prototyping circuits.
these are awesome little development boards. Highly recommend the FTDI breakout programmer, makes life very easy. This board is very thin, compact, and has plenty of IO options. Easy to solder.
Useful as low-cost and already-wired processor in testing data communication (RS232) programming with a PC serial port by assembly-language and by the Arduino IDE
I built my wife a birthday card using this board and some red LEDs. The Pro Mini is the perfect size to hide in a piece of cardboard along with all the wiring and a coin battery. She loved the card.. I constantly look for opportunities to use one of these little guys.. Great product!
If you need to integrate a small ready-to-use arduino/ATmega in your project this is a pretty great little board. this is made to be as small as portable as possible. Even the PCB itself is thinner then usual.
Of course it’s awesome, it’s from Sparkfun.
The biggest problem with Sparkfun boards is, the AREF missing!!! So don’t buy it if you want to scale the sensor readings or to improve the resolution of your measurement.
is there anything better than this tiny, easy to use computer?
This low-voltage arduino can fit every tiny, cableless proyect you can imagine!
This is a great way to get an MCU into a tiny project based on the easy-to-use Arduino platform. It’s very powerful and has the same numnber of i/o pads as the big boards. Getting the program on is a bit tricky, but not too terrible once you have the right set-up.
I’ve basically abandoned all Arduino models except this and the Moteino (which is basically a Pro Mini with a radio). I haven’t done a project that needed a larger processor or more IO, and for $10, you can make a lot of really cool stuff!
I was spending a lot of time trying to figure out why I couldn’t get the Serial1 port to work as it kept screwing up and hanging the Serial data also. I finally looked at the specs and noticed that it has only one UART which is the same as the FTDI port. Actually it doesn’t make sense to me. Why would there be wasted RX and TX when they are the same as the RX and TX on the FTDI?
I really like it. It is the best Arduino board for the small size projects. I recommend this product.
I seem to be collecting microcontroller boards and these are my newest acquisition.
I’ve used one of these very successfully in a micro/macrophotography stacking rig.
I power mine with 12V or 9V to the RAW pin. No smoke. If there is smoke, something is wrong with your unit or wiring. I always use these with external reverse polarity protection diodes (Schottky) or even MOSFETs. It’s easier than you might think to wire things up backwards.
I am a bit perplexed, however, by the location of those four analogue input pins. I guess it makes the board a bit shorter by putting them there, but I’d rather a board that’s 5mm longer with those pins placed in-line with the others, two per side.
Another thing to note is that the silk-screening for the TX and RX pins is quite confusing unless you consult the ATMega328 pinout. Arduino UNO, for example, labels their pins TX->1 and RX<-0. Letting you know that TX (out) is pin 1, and RX (in) is pin 0. On this board, however, the pin numbers are missing - but to a casual observer, it may not appear that way. Instead, the letters I (in) and O (out) appear, which are easy to confuse with pin numbers. RXI is in fact pin 0, and TXO is in fact pin 1. So beware of that, if you plan to actually use those for something other than serial.
I’m currently hacking a PS2 remote controller, in order to use it to drive a RC DIY quadcopter. I emptied the controller, because I found the electronic inside very ugly, and wanted to make all the logic of the controller on my own. I like using Atmel microcontrolers, but I don’t have the skills to solder CMS ones: indeed, any DIP-24 package don’t fit in the controller. Then, the Pro Mini was the perfect board: it’s tiny enough to fit in, and there’s no need to CMS solder.
I bought 3/3V and 5 V versions of this and got an immediate download and run. Then they stopped taking downloads and it took 2 days to figure out what it was. In my circuit I was using one of the BT boards (Bluetooth) hooked up to the RX and TX pins. With that connected it will not program. Pull one of the two lines and it programs fine. It’s a little irritating but it works and the mini pro is the exact right size and does a great job. The only other thing I can say is that you can’t easily hook A4 and A5 to your breadboard if you want to use I2C. You have to solder wires in to A4 and A5 and plug the rest into your breadboard then plug the wires from A4 and A5 into your breadboard. A little irritating but if they were outside then the board would be bigger and it would not fit what I need. Overall I am happy with the mini pros I bought.
Hi, You’ll commonly want to disconnect any devices from your hardware serial when programming. The trick is to run software serial for your Bluetooth device. That will move the communication lines over to non hardware UART lines and will allow you to leave the BT hooked up when programming.