SparkFun will be closed Nov 26th and 27th for the Thanksgiving holiday. Orders placed after 2:00pm MT on the 25th will ship out Monday the 30th.


Member Since: June 3, 2013

Country: United States

  • I wish I lived closer to you guys. You are always doing cool stuff over there.

  • Yes, the diodes would be for flyback. And as for your second question a quick peek at the Wikipedia page for Flyback Diodes gives me the information that Schottky Diodes have quicker response to reverse bias, but if the diode is only being used to dissipate the inductive energy, as with a solenoid or motor, then a cheaper rectifier diode 1N4001 may be used.

    So yes, it looks like 1N4001 may be used in place of the Schottky Diodes. I originally posted the Schottky because someone suggested using them for flybacks in the comment section of another similar motor driver.

  • Neat

  • There is a little too much reverberation in the room you filmed in. If only you had some sort of echo-cancelling objects. They would need to be made out of a material that could easily absorb plenty of sound instead of reflecting it back into the room. Perhaps a material such as cardboard would work? I also believe it would help if these objects were hollow on the inside, and it would be best if they were built with square or rectangular faces so they could be stacked tightly with close to no room for the sound to travel between the cardboard cuboids. But of course, cardboard is such an ugly brown color. Perhaps they could be colored on the outside so they are more pleasant to look at? Because according to a scientific study (that I made up) the color red absorbs more sound waves than any other color in the spectrum, that would surely be the color to pick.

    But where could one possibly find such an item with these specific attributes that are needed? Surely one would have to scour the ends of the world to find such a thing.

  • I would add a Redboard (and a Mini-B Cable for programming, if you don’t have one already), a ProtoShield, and this H-Bridge Motor Driver 1A and I believe you may need some Schottky Diodes to go with the motor driver as well. (And perhaps one of the Mini Breadboards if you don’t wish to solder the H-Bridge directly into the prototype area on the ProtoShield)

    That should be everything you would need other than 4xAA batteries, a screw driver, and wire (or Jumper Wire) which I assume you would have at home.

  • I wasn’t aware that today was both Christmas and New Product Friday.

  • Or perhaps a GLaDOS Potato.

    Edit: Mazaa already beat me to that suggestion.

  • Dubstep Gloves?

    I’m thinking two of these 24 neopixel rings (one for each palm) with a speaker inside each ring, I believe it will just barely fit. Then just load up light shows for each song, and perhaps include some sort of input to cycle through songs.

    It probably wouldn’t be as loud as I would like so I could also looking into wiring something like this up to a battery and store it in a backpack, then run the input cable to the LilyPad MP3 output jack.

  • http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27195__atmel_atmega_socket_firmware_flashing_tool.html

    That is a link to a firmware flashing tool, it is used to upload custom programming onto atmel chips. It is done by holding the socket on top of the chip and activating the uploader. I believe this would work to burn the new bootloader onto the chip, but I am not sure. I am also unsure if there would be easy access to the atmega328, or if soldering onto the 3 pads on the PCB would be the only way to get access to the pins.

  • Thanks for the picture of those adorable chip creatures. Now I have a reason to buy ridiculous amounts of googly eyes online.