Home | Product Categories | Buttons/Switches | COM-09032

Sweet!

Could we have a datasheet for this? Thanks!

This looks like the datasheet, http://www.p3america.com/pp/802.htm.

I bought one of these to replace a busted one in a wireless XBOX 360 controller and it works perfectly! These are exactly the same as the ones in the 360 controller and even the original xbox and Dual-shock PS1/2/3 controllers. This is the only site that I could find that sells these. I was able to repair a $50 controller for $4! Thanks for carrying these guys!
If you’re interested in how to fix one I made an Instrucable on Instructables.com. You can see it here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How_to_replace_a_broken_analog_joystick_on_an_XBOX/

This thumbstick is EXACTLY the same as the one out of a PS2 controller. I didnt buy this 1 but I bought the breakout board sold here on sparkfun for it and used a thumbstick I removed from an old PS2 controller. They really are exactly the same. I also made a quick video if anyone wants to see it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvvu—1sdhg

I bought 2 of these to fix my old xbox 360 controller. They look good and feel fine, but they have problems: The one I have installed as my left stick randomly just does berserk and keeps on sending the same signal until I wiggle it around (example: in racing games, it doesnt matter if Im keeping a left or right turn, the car suddenly starts turning right ). The right one just needs a little, tiny, insignificant nudge in order to start sending signals all over the y axis (in NFS HP,for example, it switches between normal, centered, camera and rearview camera at 10-20 times per second.

Soldering was correct and over-watched by an experienced person so thats not the problem.<br /> I truly regret buying them... but being a cheap ass I thought Ill spend less repairing it than buying a new controller. I was proven wrong because of crappy, low quality parts.

Maybe I`ll think twice before buying parts from here.

Here is some simple code for the arduino

/* Released to public domain */  
const int selectPin = 2;  
const int joystick_xPin = A0;  
const int joystick_yPin = A5;  
int oldX = 0;  
int oldY = 0;  
int oldSelect = 0;  
void setup()  
{  
  pinMode(selectPin, INPUT);  
  digitalWrite(selectPin, HIGH);  
  Serial.begin(9600);  

}
void loop()

{  
  int joystick_x;  
  int joystick_y;  
  int select;  
  joystick_x = map(analogRead(joystick_xPin), 0, 1023, 1, 20);  
  joystick_y = map(analogRead(joystick_yPin), 0, 1023, 1, 20);  
 select = !digitalRead(selectPin);  
  if((oldX != joystick_x) ||  
      (oldY != joystick_y) ||  
     (oldSelect != select)){  
       Serial.print("joystick X: ");  
       Serial.print(joystick_x);  
       Serial.print(" joystick Y: ");  
       Serial.print(joystick_y);  
       if(select){  
          Serial.print(" select");  
       }  
       Serial.println("");  
       oldX = joystick_x;  
       oldY = joystick_y;  
       oldSelect = select;  
  }  
 delay(10);  
}

Very nice component, I hope you will restock them.

Is it spring loaded “return-to-center”?
A fair amount of effort in the RC community has been taking pots from the PS2 controllers and REMOVING that capability (traditionally on a dual-stick RC, your “turn” joystick is spring loaded, but the “throttle” joystick isn’t. Or something like that…)

When will these be back in stock?

In case anyone’s interested, I built a library for the arduino for this part. It’s hosted on google code @ http://code.google.com/p/arduino-joystick/

Are these actually 10kohm pots? I have a pair, and they center at 3.5 kohms and range from 200 ohms to almost 5k ohms.

An interesting form of user input. I have measured what it can do and documented it, available at: http://wp.me/pQmjR-h8

This is a pretty cool part, although it is difficult to mount, even with the breakout board. As far as I can tell it cannot be mounted under a surface, you need another surface under it to mount to. But, nonetheless, a fantastically simple dual pot + button setup.

Wow it doesn’t pay to go to sleep. Wake up and they are back out of stock again :)

Anybody have a good idea on a hole size for mounting through a case?
My first attempt at that led to some trimming of the plastic doohickey to keep it from snagging.

It does appear that the description may be wrong. i measure the pots at about 5K, not 10K and it centers at between 3.5K and 4K depending on the axis. It appears good for simple direction indication, but you will have to work out the scale if you want some linear indication of position. I am measuring .25K min, 3.5K center, 4.8K max. Is there any kind of adjustment possible on these units? Thanks.

Actually, It might be sort of 10K – the data sheet for the part says “10K +/– 30%”

does anyone have any ideas on how to mount this to a plywood controller?

I used this in a project and it worked great, until it had to perform. These joysticks died 15minutes before a competition and left me dead in the water.

It might have been my own fault as I didn’t include a current limiting resistor. However a datasheet of some sort would have been nice to let me know how much current these can take.

wow, bought two of these and when the x wordked well, but the y potentiometer, when I put it to the max, I can see inside the potentiometer, a little “explosion”, some spark inside it, and after that, a smoke, and finally, the pot got burned…

Don’t know what happened, but I don’t know if this gonna happen to the other…

:(

(there’s no pins soldered together and nothing wrong in the cirtuit)

Bought 2 of these and 1 got the y burned. Tested the other here and the middle sometimes gets 330 and haves a dead point that marks 0. When I pull up the x or y, I get ~1010, but when I pull it down I get 0, and 0 at the middle too. It’m impossible to control something in this conditions…
:(

Just say YES to the breakout board.
If you are using this for any hobby stuff I would get the breakout board. This will not fit in a breadboard or perfboard. its a great piece, but just spring for the breakout unless you want to solder wire scraps to the leads.

I don’t have access to a PS anything controller (I’m a 360 man myself) and I can’t remember if the ‘boot’ around the bottom is flexible or not. In other words, will it give if the cutout is only as big as the shaft travel?
The PS2 controllers had insets to accomodate the height. I won’t have that option and I’m not sure I like the idea of giant hole in the top of the case to accomodate all the movement. If that ‘boot’ is flexible, it will make my life much easier.

Are these supposed to be linear? or at least something close to linear?
I have one and on a 10bit scale, I get 506 in the center and it is repeatable over many spring returns. However, the scale is almost usable. I was trying to get a slow/medium/fast out of it so i was simply dividing each half by 3 with a small dead zone in the middle. I thought it was broken for the longest until I started looking at numbers again. I go from 506 to 1021 within about the first 3 degrees of movement. From there it is basically maxed to the end. Same in the other direction and the same for the other axis. I have semi faked two speeds out of it but it is very sketchy where that second one picks up since I am having to look for values between 492 and 4 for example. Anything less than for is my fast that sketchy.
Any advice?

Hi,
I wrote a convenient C# driver targeting the netduino for this and other similar analog joysticks.
You can find the details here: http://fabienroyer.wordpress.com/2011/01/09/connecting-an-analog-joystick-to-a-netduino/
Cheers,
-Fabien.

info: pressing down the joystick returns LOW for the button, not HIGH :) i needed some time to find that out…