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Description: This is the breakout board for the thumb joystick. Pins are broken out to a 0.1" header and includes 4 mounting holes in the corners.
Dimensions: 1" x 1.25"
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A row of headers - break to fit. 40 pins that can be cut to any size. Used with custom PCBs or general custom headers.
This is a joystick very similar to the 'analog' joysticks on PS2 (PlayStation 2) controllers. Directional movements are simpl…
A row of right angle male headers - break to fit. 40 pins that can be cut to any size. Used with custom PCBs or general custo…
Sometimes you need a very small directional input device (world's smallest game controller, anyone?) This 5-way tactile switc…
The Joystick Shield sits on top of your Arduino and turns it into a simple controller. Five momentary push buttons (4+ joysti…
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This is the new Arduino Uno R3. In addition to all the features of the previous board, the Uno now uses an ATmega16U2 instead…
Resistors are a good thing, in fact, they're actually crucial in a lot of circuit designs. The only problem seems to be that …
This is a simple to use, USB to serial base unit for the Digi XBee line. This unit works with all XBee modules including the …
Single row of 40-holes, female header. Can be cut to size with a pair of wire-cutters. Standard .1" spacing. We use them exte…
If you've ever tried to connect a 3.3V device to a 5V system, you know what a challenge it can be. The SparkFun bi-directiona…
This is the newest revision of our [FTDI Basic](http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9115). We now u…
The Teensy is a breadboard-friendly development board with loads of features in a, well, teensy package. The Teensy 3.1 bring…
It's blue! It's thin! It's the Arduino Pro Mini! SparkFun's minimal design approach to Arduino. This is a 3.3V Arduino runnin…
We use these little buttons on everything! These Miniature Single Pole Single Throw switches have a good click to them and ar…
This is a resistive analog joystick, very similar to those found on the PSP1000. These compact joysticks are different in tha…
This is a standard 12mm square momentary button. What we really like is the large button head and good tactile feel (it 'clic…
Arduino is an open-source physical computing platform based on a simple i/o board and a development environment that implemen…
These are very slim, extremely light weight batteries based on the new Polymer Lithium Ion chemistry. This is the highest ene…
These tactile buttons are great for all sorts of projects. This assortment comes with 2 of each of 6 different colors for a t…
These headers are made to work with the Arduino Uno R3, Leonardo and new Arduino boards going forward. They are the perfect h…
**Description**: Ever wonder what goes on inside these things? Well this clear bread board might enlighten.
Beyond the cl…
This is the LSM9DS0, a versatile motion-sensing system-in-a-chip that houses a 3-axis accelerometer, 3-axis gyroscope, and 3-…
An adjustable potentiometer can open up many interesting user interfaces. Turn the pot and the resistance changes. Connect VC…
You have an estimate of negative 39 pieces, ha ha…that’s not good.
Is there any reason SEL is connected to GND when pressed and the digital input has to be pulled-up ?, I mean, when checking Arduino.cc tutorials, in their examples the pushbuttons are connected to Vcc when pressed and their digital inputs pulled-down.
Technically it really doesn’t matter much but the Arduinos (and many other microcontrollers as well) do have internal pullups meaning if you connect things to ground you don’t actually need to add a physical resistor.
In case anyone is interested (and I hope I’m not stepping on any toes here), made a quick eagle file for a dual joystick (same as this, but doubled on one breakout). Get it on github if interested:
Not stepping on toes at all! Thanks for sharing with the community :)
Sparkfun, could you create a modular breakout holder? Something that could combine multiple breakout boards to make a “super” sensor shield for Arduino or other platforms?
Can this be adapted to make a joystick mouse for a laptop. Maybe even wireless?
Not sure exactly how to describe this. When I mount the joystick on the breakout board, then put some standoffs on the component side, the joystick’s skirt interferes with two of the standoffs. The standoffs are the small hexagonal threaded standoffs, 4-40 threaded, ½ inch long. It would help to move two of the mounting holes (the top two, looking at the photo) about 2mm “north”. Maybe I will nibble away some of the skirt to provide some clearance, geometry permitting.
I just stepped on this rake myself. Went to mount the breakout board with 5/8" long 4-40 standoffs and discovered that the joystick “ball” and the two standoffs at the switch end of the breakout board want to occupy the same space, wonderful, more things to make and the clock is ticking.
Mount from below, if you can.
An alternative if you must mount on the front/top cover of your project, albeit a hack, is to mount the joystick on a thin piece of aluminum that is ¼" or so wider than the breakout board, and then mount the assembly as needed. This will get the standoffs away from the ball of the joystick.
can someone help me out here? on the fourth example picture, there are little legs coming out of the gnd, sel, etc. pins of the board. what are those called/where can i find them?
Those are commonly called “headers”, and you can find them (both straight and right-angle) in the related products below.
any eagle files for this? I am looking for the hole spacings so I can mount it correctly. Otherwise great very handy product.
could you post the eagle files for this? or possibly give some dimensions on the board and the joystick? Specifically the mounting hole spacing….
For use with this breakout board, it would be very useful to have a right angle version of the 5-pin polarized header you offer here: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8230
The straight header interferes with the motion and click of the joystick. An example of what I need is here: http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/POLHDRR5.shtml
Will you be making any revisions to the board soon? I used this in one of my projects and it worked great!<br />
However, I am not using any micro controllers in my project and to use the Select button was a bit of a chore. I was using a dual NOR gate as an SR flip-flop and I needed to limit the current to the microswitch with a 10K resistor. Because the microswitch is tied directly to ground I had to cut the trace for the microswitch ground and route a 10K resistor along side it. <br />
Is there anyway that future versions could have a provision for current limiting resistors, for analog electronics?
An interesting form of user input. I have measured what the matching joystick can do and documented it, available at: http://wp.me/pQmjR-h8
I got both the thumb stick and the breakout board. The Vert and Horz were pretty easy to use since they are just the voltage division value based on the Vcc. If Vcc in 5V, then the center position is 2.5V. I don’t know the rating on the potentiometers so it’s probably safe to not put too much voltage across it. I tried 3.3V and 5V and you get more voltage resolution with the higher voltage.
The SEL wasn’t as straight forward. I thought when you push the button down you just get Vcc at Sel, but it’s actually the opposite with the way the PCB is made. You get “GND” at SEL. I think you could just reverse the GND and VCC to give SEL a logic high. However, all you Horz and Vert voltages will be backward. Anyway, I kept the wiring the way it was intended and just hook select up to a load with Vcc on the other end. I put an I/O pin from an MCU at SEL to check for logic change to low and that works fine.
This thumb stick and the breakout board are great! I now have my servo controllable with the thumb stick and I use SEL to change from fast speed to slow speed.
“I thought when you push the button down you just get Vcc at Sel, but it’s actually the opposite with the way the PCB is made. You get "GND” at SEL.“
thanks so much… i thought my joystick is broken after soldering it to the board… after setting the input pin to HIGH in setup and checking it for getting LOW it works. didn’t even thought that it could become LOW… thank you!
I just got this recently and used it to hook a thumbstick I removed from a PS2 controller to my arduino. Works great, easy to use, thanx guys. I made a quick test video here if you want to see it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvvu–1sdhg
The photos are inconsistent, as some show holes in the corners and some do not. Also, I’d like to order this and the matching joystick, but I’ve yet to see both in stock at the same time. It’s a bummer to have to pay for shipping twice just to get these two items (not to mention the colossal waste of energy shipping two separate packages across the country.)
you can click the little box to have the order held until all items are available.
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