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Description: Sometimes you want a small input and a single button just won’t cut it. A 5-way tactile switch allows for a joystick-like interface in a very small package. These are surface mount, but easily soldered.
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This is a joystick very similar to the 'analog' joysticks on PS2 (PlayStation 2) controllers. Directional movements are simpl…
This is a standard 12mm square momentary button. What we really like is the large button head and good tactile feel (it 'clic…
These tactile buttons are great for all sorts of projects. This assortment comes with 2 of each of 6 different colors for a t…
This is a heavy-duty joystick very similar to the ones in [claw](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claw_vending_machine) arcade ga…
This is a resistive analog joystick, very similar to those found on the PSP1000. These compact joysticks are different in tha…
A simple SMD slide switch. Perfect for when you need access to a setting or a power switch from the edge of a PCB buried deep…
This is a tiny trackball akin to those found on a number of Blackberry models (8100, 8300, 8320, 8800, 8830, etc). Each of th…
A row of headers - break to fit. 40 pins that can be cut to any size. Used with custom PCBs or general custom headers.
Resistors are a good thing, in fact, they're actually crucial in a lot of circuit designs. The only problem seems to be that …
We use these little buttons on everything! These Miniature Single Pole Single Throw switches have a good click to them and ar…
This is the new Arduino Uno R3. In addition to all the features of the previous board, the Uno now uses an ATmega16U2 instead…
Miniature surface mount momentary button. These are great, low-profile momentary switches. Perfect as a tactile reset switch.…
Surface mount 3-way switch. These switches are commonly found on handheld devices like MP3 players. This switch allows the us…
This is a 12-step rotary encoder with a nice 'clicking' feel. It's breadboard friendly, and has a pretty handy select switch …
The SparkFun Inventor's Kit (SIK) is a great way to get started with programming and hardware interaction with the Arduino pr…
It's blue! It's thin! It's the Arduino Pro Mini! SparkFun's minimal design approach to Arduino. This is a 5V Arduino running …
Single row of 40-holes, female header. Can be cut to size with a pair of wire-cutters. Standard .1" spacing. We use them exte…
This is a force sensitive resistor with a round, 0.5" diameter, sensing area. This FSR will vary its resistance depending on …
A simple flex sensor 2.2" in length. As the sensor is flexed, the resistance across the sensor increases. Patented technology…
This is a simple LED-illuminated tactile button with a clear cap. It's just like a basic tactile button, but it lights up blu…
This is the same temperature sensor that is included in our [SparkFun Inventor's Kit](http://www.sparkfun.com/products/12060)…
Rotary encoders can be used similarly to potentiometers. The difference being that an encoder has full rotation without limit…
This is a very small light sensor. A photocell changes (also called a [photodetector](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photodetec…
An adjustable potentiometer can open up many interesting user interfaces. Turn the pot and the resistance changes. Connect VC…
I’m I reading this correctly that it could not be moved at an ordinal direction to get, for example both the south and west pin to close?
I spent many hours looking before and could never find rubber nubs for these kind of switches.
If nobody else knows where to get these it would be pretty cool if Sparkfun had a batch made.
You could probably make a nub thing out of polymorph. I presume you want a flattish disc with a mm or two space under it. You need a shape which prevents high side loads. If you want rubber sugru could be the shot. Oogoo might work but the stuff I’ve made is much softer than sugru.
BTW I’ve found laundry starch works fine to make oogoo. If you don’t know what I’m taking about google it.
Hey, if anyone is looking for a joystick that works for this switch I actually found a really good but bizarre fix:Tiger Pops.
Tiger Pop suckers have hollow plastic sticks that fit perfectly over the nub. I stuck the Tiger Pop stick onto it and molded some Sugru around the stick for a more aesthetic joystick appearance. So far so good. It shouldn’t be much longer than an inch or the torque will make the joystick pop off.
Has anyone found a cap/nub/key for this switch? If so, I’d love to know where you can get them. Thanks - k
Just a suggestion, but I think SF should make a breakout board for these as well carry rubber nubs.
Any tips for soldering these onto the appropriate footprint? Is it best to put some solder onto the pads first? If so, just one pad or all of them?
I brought one of these and found that the force needed to ‘click’ it was more than my purpose (tongue control)
However when I dismantled the unit I found it had 2 metal contact inserts rather than one.
Not sure if this was a ‘feature’ bu removing one get it a much softer range and perfect for my needs.
Also being a 5 way switch makes it very easy to convert to a resistive network for an analogue input
Is there a plastic “knob” available for this?
Any bigger package version of this switch available her or elsewhere?
Probably not - they’re all about the same size (~1cm each side). The idea is that the controls you design around it (plastic, magnesium alloy, etc.) are actually what give it the desired size. Any particular reason you’d want a bigger one?
I made an Eagle part for this. You can download it here:
There’s a couple of other parts in the library, just ignore them, didn’t feel like creating a separate file just for this one part. I’ve verified that the footprint works as I’ve just finished soldering a board using it.
I have to say I’m disappointed in the quality of the switch though. The first few times I used the switch it clicked nicely but very very quickly it lost its “clickyness” and it doesn’t give you any confidence that it’s doing what it’s supposed to. I dunno, maybe I got a bad batch.
Anyone have the Eagle files for this?
Anyone know if the directions are locked? I.e. is it a 4- or 8-way stick?
For those interested I designed my own breakout board that works really well. The schematics and a example code for netduino can be found http://dev.bitbounce.ca/FogBugz/kiln/Repo/Netduino-Samples/Group/TactileButtonSample/Files
So I know this an Extremely simple question, but I am brand new to everything on this site. I cannot find anything on the net explaining how I use these. I am learning from an Arduino, I know how to use switches, potentiometers, rgb digital led strip C++ maniac. And I cannot figure out how to use these. Any help would be great.
it just acts like a bunch of switches in one package. check the datasheet and look at the circuit diagram. pin 5 is your common pin, and all the others would be the other ‘switches’.
each switch would connect to the arduino just like a single switch, but they share a common pin.
thank you, so how do I mount it? Again sorry for the noob questions but I gotta ask them.
that’s much harder to answer. you’ll need to learn SMD soldering and make your own board. check the tutorials section above, it should help you out a bit.
Word of warning: these are very tiny.
If you’re not able to solder microscopic contacts you’ll want to get a few so you can practice some hot plate soldering.
Is this in the SFE Eagle library? (I can’t find it)
Damn lol. Every time I go to put through an order, these things are out of stock.
I was looking at DK at a part just like this! Now if you had a break out board for it I would love it! Needing to make a custom mouse replacement that can send key commands from a button to a pc.
Will this work with this breakout board:
Doesn’t look like it. The pin pitch is quite different from that of SOT-23-6.
Hmm. I like the dimensions, but I notice the action is rotated 45 degrees from the case… I actually just launched Eagle to make sure it was easy to place a 45 degree footprint, which it is. Huh, never had to do THAT before, but it’s easy.
Humm.. I tried to layout a part in Eagle after downloading the datasheet but after print-checkig it, turns out to large… I went back to check some of the dim’s (like the spacing between the mount holes), and all seems ok. Not sure what I seem to be missing… I was wondering if anyone allready has the part made for Eagle..? It would save some time…
Thanks in advance..!!
Nice! This is exactly what I needed for my current project! :)
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